100 New Yorkers of the 1970s — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
100 New Yorkers of the 1970s
John Stuart Mill · en
A prolific author as well, Lang has written several books and hundreds of
articles for leading publications, including the _Encyclopedia Britannica_.
His column, "Table for One," is a regular feature of _Travel & Leisure_
magazine. He has bottled burgundy under his own label, arranged parties
for the rich and famous, and served as consultant for _Time-Life's_ series
on international cookery.
His office has a miniature garden in the middle; the wall are lined with
5,000 catalogued cookbooks. He comes sailing into the room and takes a
seat at his semicircular desk, which all but engulfs him. Short in stature,
bald as a gourd, he moves with a darting energy that sees him through 20
hour workdays with as many as 30 food tastings. His softly accented
speech is the only thing about him that is slow, because Lang chooses his
words carefully, aiming for the same perfection in English as in
everything else. Although modesty is not one of his characteristics, he
gives full credit to his staff for being equal partners in his corporation's
success. There is a feeling of camaraderie in the air, as if all are members
of a single family.
The Cafe des Artistes, he admits, was a moderately successful French
restaurant for 60 years before he took it over. "But it needed spiritual
changes as well as physical changes. And -- let me underline this and
triple-space it -- excellent food. You cannot chew scenery. We maintain
a certain kind of formal informality, which simply means that anyone can
come, dressed any way they want, as long as their behavior will justify
their white tie or dungarees. I could raise the prices by 50 to 100 percent
overnight, and I wouldn't lose a single customer. But feel an obligation
to New York City and the restaurant industry to maintain what I call
reasonable prices."
His corporation also owns the Hungaria Restaurant at Citicorp, which has
a gypsy orchestra from Budapest, and Small Pleasures, a pastry shop in
the same building. However, Lang stresses that "98 percent of our
business comes from consulting. I always think in terms of problems and
solutions, because every restaurant must be designed to suit the needs of
a particular market. At Alexander's, for example, we came up with a
restaurant where you could have a reasonably pleasant luncheon for two
to four dollars."
Still an ardent music lover, George Lang plays the violin whenever time
permits. He recently acquired a Stradivarius and says with a laugh, "I'm
threatening to get back completely to shape and play a concert."
Lang enjoys the European atmosphere of the West Side, where he has
lived for the past 30 years. Among his favorite Westside restaurants: the
Moon Palace on Broadway, Sakura Chaya on Columbus, and Le Poulailler
on 65th Street.
His latest endeavor is a 4-to-6-minute TV spot titled _Lang at Large_,
which is broadcast twice a month on the CBS network show _Sunday
Morning_. "It's part of my new career," he announces joyfully.