Nieuport, like Dixmude and Ypres, shared the sad privilege of an
absolute and systematic destruction. There are rent walls everywhere
and piled-up ruins, from which the most extraordinary fragments of
rubbish emerge, showing all that remains of furniture, so often
endeared to its owners by fond memories. Not a single house has been
spared. The roofs and the floors, riddled by shells, are shapeless
masses now lying on the ground. A few house fronts are still standing,
showing the trace of streets all dismal and deserted, except when a few
rare soldiers pass silently by, looking like so many wandering ghosts
in the midst of fantastical scenery. The Market Place, adjoining the
church, was specially aimed at. It is now unrecognisable, thanks to
constant bombardment. In a corner, can be seen the massive outline
of the Cloth Hall. It is disfigured by horrible wounds, but is still
fascinating. It was one of the most interesting monuments of our
Flemish art of the fifteenth century. The injuries of time, and those
of men, had hitherto respected its primitive architecture. The roof,
which was of a special technique, had escaped until now, but these
last days it fell in, under a veritable avalanche of balls. Quite
near to it stands the spectre of the ruined church. I could still see
it, as it used to be, dominating the whole town with its imposing
mass, interesting to contemplate and to study in every detail. It was
original, too, on account of its various reconstructions, the traces
of which could be seen in the different styles composing it, from
primitive Gothic to the Renaissance and Louis XIV. And what is left now
of all this? One night, it was set on fire by shells, and the deluge
of shrapnels, which immediately surrounded the building, prevented
anyone from saving the least object. The vaulted roof fell in. Charred
walls, riddled by shell fragments, now frame the columns which are
still standing, supporting the graceful ogives that had been sullied
by the odious aggression. Quantities of material lie in unequal piles;
here and there a few decorative pieces, disfigured by their fall. It is
an imposing looking skeleton, though, in its despair, and it seems as
though it wants to remain there, as a witness, after its own death, to
its past grandeur.
One tragic relic of its wreckage still remains, and that is the
Tower. In spite of numberless projectiles, its massive construction,
devastated, but not conquered, persists in dominating the horizon of
Flanders. It had been constructed, primitively, to support three times
its weight. It scorned the shells which wounded it without knocking it
down, and its dark mass, proudly standing in the midst of the heaped-up
ruins, seems to be defying the infernal inventions aimed at it.