Byzantine Constantinople, the walls of the city and adjoining historical sites
John Stuart Mill · en
A little further south, arched buttresses, forming the substructures on
which the villa known as Indjili Kiosk, in the Seraglio grounds, once
stood, are seen built against the walls. Through these buttresses the
water of a Holy Spring within the city was, until recently, conducted to
the outer side of the walls, and thus rendered accessible to the
Christians of the Greek Orthodox Church, who sought the benefit of its
healing virtues. This was the Holy Spring of the Church of St. Saviour,
celebrated as a fountain of health long before the Turkish Conquest.
“Tout cet endroit ressemble la piscine de Salomon qui est à Jérusalem!”
exclaims one of the Russian pilgrims, who visited the shrine during the
period of the Palæologi.[914]
Its identity cannot be disputed. For the memory of the fact that the
Church of St. Saviour stood at this point has been preserved by the
annual pilgrimages made to the spot, on the Festival of the
Transfiguration, from the time of the Turkish Conquest until the year
1821, when the privilege of frequenting the spring was withdrawn, on
account of the political events of the day. Such popular customs afford
strong evidence.
The first writer who refers to the church and spring after 1453 is
Gyllius,[915] who, speaking of the water-gates in the walls around the
Seraglio, describes the position of Demir Kapoussi thus: “The fourth
gate (counting from Yali Kiosk Kapoussi) faces south-east (solis exortum
spectat hibernum), and is not far from the ruins of the church dedicated
to Christ, for the remains of which, found built in the wall, the Greeks
show much reverence, by visiting them in great crowds.” Thevenot[916]
and Grelot[917] give a long account of the animated scene witnessed here
on the Festival of the Transfiguration, in their day. The Sultan himself
would sometimes come to Indjili Kiosk to be entertained by the spectacle
presented on that occasion, particularly by seeing sick persons buried
up to the neck in the sand on the seashore, as a method of cure. Hammer
writes to the same effect, but supposed the spring to be the Hagiasma of
the Virgin, and thought it marked the site of the Church of the
Theotokos Hodegetria, which was in this vicinity, and to which also a
Holy Spring was attached.[918] But this opinion, adopted also by
Labarte,[919] is opposed to all the evidence upon the subject.
Finally, there is the testimony of the Patriarch Constantius, already
alluded to, that from 1453 to 1821 the Hagiasma at Indjili Kiosk was
annually frequented on the 6th of August, as the Holy Well associated
with the Church of St. Saviour: “The Greeks still revered, until a few
years ago, as a matter of tradition, the Hagiasma of the Saviour, which
was under Indjili Kiosk.”[920]