The site was admirably chosen, and is, indeed, one of the finest in
Greece. The village of Boudonitza, Bodonitza, or Mendenitza, as it is
now called, lies at a distance of three and a half hours on horseback
from the baths of Thermopylæ and nearly an hour and a half from the
top of the pass which leads across the mountains to Dadi at the foot
of Parnassos. The castle, which is visible for more than an hour as
we approach from Thermopylæ, stands on a hill which bars the valley
and occupies a truly commanding position (Plate VI, Figs. 1 and 2).
The Warden of the Marches, in the Frankish times, could watch from its
battlements the blue Maliac Gulf with the even then important town
of Stylida, the landing-place for Zetounion, or Lamia; his eye could
traverse the channel up to, and beyond, the entrance to the Gulf of
Almiro, as the Gulf of Volo was then called; in the distance he could
descry two of the Northern Sporades—Skiathos and Skopelos—at first in the
hands of the friendly Ghisi, then reconquered by the hostile Byzantine
forces. The northernmost of the three Lombard baronies of Eubœa with the
bright streak which marks the baths of Ædepsos, and the little island of
Panaia, or Canaia, between Eubœa and the mainland, which was one of the
last remnants of Italian rule in this part of Greece, lay outstretched
before him; and no pirate craft could come up the Atalante channel
without his knowledge. Landwards, the view is bounded by vast masses
of mountains, but the danger was not yet from that quarter, while a
rocky gorge, the bed of a dry torrent, isolates one side of the castle.
Such was the site where, for more than two centuries, the Marquesses of
Boudonitza watched, as advanced sentinels, first of “new France” and then
of Christendom.