The most intelligent suggestions for Dress Reform are those that are
directed towards reducing the weight or displacing the heavy, stiff,
and unwieldy skirts and clothing the extremities of the female in
divided garments, so that they are no longer exposed to the dangers of
cold and drafts. The divided skirt is in the direct line of a modest
and desirable improvement of woman’s dress, and it is growing in
popularity among the most intelligent of reading and thinking women.
If the specialists of female diseases were to study the interests of
their patients with the same ardor that they study the methods how
best to fill their offices with patients, on whom they perform useless
and dangerous operations, they would be of some actual benefit to
our wives, mothers, and sisters, and our women could be dressed as
gracefully as at present with less than half the underclothes to pack
around with them.
I am decidedly opposed to anything approaching in style or shape the
bloomer costume; the present style of outside dress cannot possibly
be improved for a comely garment, but it is underneath this that an
entire change should be speedily effected. The divided skirt is cut
like drawers that have a width of thirty to forty inches of goods in
each leg. I believe that the width of each leg should not be more than
twenty-five to thirty inches; this makes the skirt warmer and lighter.
This is not attached to a band to fasten around the waist, but to a
yoke, which should be buttoned to the bodice waist, suspending the
skirt from the shoulders. The material will be a matter of individual
taste; the two qualities that should be always looked for are softness
and warmth, and for that reason Jersey flannel and ladies’ cloth are
the most suitable material; in summer or warm climates, pongee or wash
silks may be substituted.
The skirt is cut on the bias to fit the hips, where it is fulled in and
attached to a yoke instead of a band and in the back it laps about two
or three inches. The advantage of the divided skirt is that it protects
the limbs and body against drafts and cold emanations, and takes the
place of _all underskirts and petticoats_. This skirt alone, however,
would be insufficient to accomplish all that is desired by way of
guarding against exposures; for this reason there is also a so-called
_Union suit_ worn under the divided skirt to complete the covering of
the limbs.
Union suits, as the name implies, unite a pair of closely-fitting
drawers with an undershirt. There is no particular advantage in
uniting the underdrawers with the undershirt, but there is certainly
no disadvantage. The principal object that is to be attained is not
in unionizing drawers and shirts, but wearing such _closely fitting
undergarments_ that the _extremities_ are permanently protected, and in
having them so lapped or closed that the _abdomen and pelvic organs_
are securely protected against cold.