At night the temperature dropped to 28° F., and ice half an inch thick
formed on the reservoir; in the morning the ground was white with
frost. The sparse vegetation on the slope consists of _frailejones_,
blueberry-bushes and tall, tough grass; stunted trees and bushes, all
covered with moss, grow in the deeper ravines. Hunting in these latter
places was a never-ending source of delight; there was no water so
it was possible to walk unrestrictedly underneath the green vault of
brush which fringed the sides and met overhead. Many little mammals’
trails zigzagged over the moss-covered rocks, and burrows opened into
the steep banks; if we stole noiselessly along, or better still, sat
quietly for a few minutes, the inquiring eyes of a paca, a large,
spotted, tailless rodent, were sure to peer timidly out of some dark
opening, to be followed later by the animal’s entire body as it moved
out stealthily to nibble on the tender sprouts. Numbers of woolly,
yellow rats (_Melanomys_) also appeared to stare with beady, black
eyes, and to nervously twitch their noses; sometimes they came out
boldly to chase one another over well-defined runways and through mossy
tunnels; but more often, they were content merely to gaze from the
entrance of some safe retreat into which they vanished at the first
suspicious move on our part. Deer, too, were seen occasionally, but
they were not numerous; they grazed on the slopes in broad daylight,
and had snug lairs in dense clumps of bushes which always commanded a
view of the surrounding country. We saw no cougars or bears although we
found the remains of several deer which had apparently been killed by
these animals.
Birds were extremely scarce and, strange to relate, exceedingly wary.
Collecting them was heart-breaking work; the slopes are so steep,
that it was impossible to walk many yards without becoming utterly
exhausted, and tramping through the high, wet grass chilled the lower
extremities to numbness. The slaty finch (_Phrygilus_) so common at
Santa Isabel, and two species of honey-creepers (_Diglossa_) were
by far the most common; followed by a queer, wren-like little bird
(_Scytalopus_) called tapacola, which lives among the densest ferns and
mosses; it was seldom seen, but a cheery whistle apprised us constantly
of its presence. There was also a gorgeous humming-bird, the whole body
being of the most resplendent, iridescent deep rose and green colors;
we located a nest of this species, a tiny moss cup scarcely an inch
across, suspended from a creeper dangling beneath a bower of protecting
leaves; it held two minute eggs, so fragile that the mere touch of a
finger would crush them.