Added to the danger of the shifting gales is a rapids named San
Jorge. There was just enough water to cover the rocks which dot the
river-bed, causing a series of cross-currents and whirlpools which
only a Venezuelan boatman, trusting mainly to luck, can hope to pass
through. The rigging of the _Hilo de Oro_ was old and rotten, and ropes
were constantly snapping and sails splitting. No matter how obvious a
defect was, it was never remedied until an accident had occurred. The
boom had been threatening to break as each sudden gust of wind struck
the mainsail, but a few boards nailed across the weakened place it
was hoped would give sufficient strength for any emergency. An hour
after leaving San Jorge, however, the boom parted with a loud report
and dropped into the water, nearly upsetting the boat. Then, while the
craft wallowed on her side with the deck awash there ensued a good deal
of mingled praying, swearing, and frantic work until the heavy boom was
fished out of the water. We tied up at the bank, cut down a tree, and
worked the greater part of the night replacing the broken member.
One of the curious granite battlements rears its head out of the
water to a height of several hundred feet, and is somewhat suggestive
of a small edition of the famous Sugar-Loaf Rock at the entrance to
the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. This is called Treasure Rock, and no
Venezuelan ever passes the spot without casting envious glances to the
top. In the days when the old Spaniards were still wandering over the
newly discovered lands in search of El Dorado, so the story goes, they
penetrated far into the Cerro Sipapo and found rich treasures in gold
and precious stones. The Guajibo Indians, in whose domain they had
penetrated and whom they had robbed, finally tired of their unwelcome
guests and chased them down the river. In desperation the Spaniards
formed a stronghold on this island rock, driving iron spikes into its
sides as a means of reaching the top; for many weeks they resisted a
siege by the savage hordes, but with the coming of the rainy season the
Indians withdrew to their mountain fastness. Finally the Spaniards
came down, cutting off the spikes as they descended; they feared
pursuit, so left the treasure on the rock, hoping to come for it when
reinforcements had been secured; they never returned, and to this day
the fabulous wealth of the Guajibos lies entombed on the top of the
impregnable boulder.