The hoarse cough of jaguars was heard almost nightly; it was the season
when great numbers of turtles left the river at nightfall to deposit
their eggs in the sand-banks, and the jaguars left the forest at dark
to dig up and feed on these eggs. One night, just as the boat had
drawn up to the high sand-bank preparatory to tying up, one of the
huge cats was discovered sitting ten feet above us quietly surveying
the scene on deck; there was a rush for the guns, but when they were
secured the jaguar had disappeared. A clear sweep of loose sand with
a low bush here and there stretched back a mile from the river to the
heavy forest, and in the brilliant moonlight it was easy to trace the
animal’s tracks as it started toward cover. Several times its shadowy
form was visible, slinking from one bush to another a few rods away,
but always out of range; after half an hour the tracks were lost in
the edge of the forest. We returned to the ship. Before replacing the
guns in the hatch some one casually broke his, which action led to the
discovery that it contained no shells; neither were the others loaded.
One of the men while cleaning them that afternoon had removed the
cartridges and failed to reload them. Fortunately, the jaguar is not
quite as savage as he is usually pictured, or there might have been a
lively scene on the _playa_.
There is but one other rapid of importance in the Orinoco before
reaching the cataracts of Atures, and that is San Borja, not far above
the mouth of the Meta. Just above this narrow stretch of seething
water we met another boat about the size of the _Hilo de Oro_, which
was cruising back and forth near the bank, her crew directing loud
shouts toward the forest at frequent intervals. Upon inquiry we found
that one of the men had gone into the woods to cut a pole; the other
members of the crew had heard him chopping, as he had not entered the
matted vegetation more than fifty feet; suddenly the chopping ceased,
but the man did not come out; although they had searched far and near,
no trace of him had been found, and this was the fourth day after his
disappearance. The supposition was that he had been killed and carried
away by Indians.