In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
In returning from fishing excursions we usually cut across the several
miles of sandy waste toward camp, guided by the bright fire which the
cook was required to keep burning, and in this way learned a good deal
about the turtle’s habits. After leaving the water the creature wends
its way toward the highest point on the island or _playa_, and with a
few powerful strokes of the flippers excavates a deep hole; the eggs,
twenty to a hundred in number, are then deposited, after which the sand
is scooped back into place and patted down so carefully that it takes a
very experienced eye to locate the spot. The turtle then hurries back
to the water, where it apparently remains until the following year.
When the eggs, warmed by the sun’s rays, finally hatch, the _playas_
swarm with small turtles which are eagerly collected by the natives,
boiled entire and eaten. The egg contains a great deal of oil, and
although cooked a long time always remains soft. Iguana eggs are taken,
also, and boiled and eaten, even when about to hatch.
Besides the turtles there were many other signs of life on the
sand-banks. Water-birds, squatting low in some cup-shaped hollow,
looked stupidly at the dazzling light of the gas-lamps, and could be
approached to within a few feet; downy young birds waited quietly until
nearly touched with the hand and then ran away into the darkness, like
puffballs rolling before a breeze.
The _Raudal de Santa Barbara_ is a wicked stretch of water. The
Ventuari, coming from the neighborhood of the Brazilian border, forms
an extensive delta near its mouth. There are many islands, some of
great size, and all heavily forested. The Orinoco is very wide, and
hundreds of sharp, tall rocks protrude above the water, causing a
series of rapids which are hard to ascend. It took us three days of
the most trying kind of work to traverse this stretch of agitated
water, and finally to haul the boat up the falls, which come as a
sort of climax at the end. A strong wind blows from the north almost
constantly, whipping the water into a choppy sea. On the bank stands
a good-sized rubber-camp, and extra hands can usually be secured to
help pull the boat through the rapids. The men from this place had
just returned from a hunt in the forest, bringing two jaguars and an
armadillo weighing sixty-five pounds. One of the jaguars was black.
All of these animals were eaten, and of the two species the flesh of
the jaguars was the better. One night, not long after, one of these
animals invaded our camp. As the sand-bank we had selected was a narrow
one, the crew chose to sleep on the forest side; they greatly feared
the crocodiles in the river. Early in the morning I was awakened by a
jaguar’s roaring mingled with frightened wails, and upon investigation
discovered that the men had come to our part of the camp near the
water, leaving the captain’s wife in their former location. They had
reasoned that she was the least useful member of the party and had