The river was teeming with fish. At night, after their work had been
completed, the Indians, who camped on the water’s edge, threw in their
lines and never failed to catch a goodly supply. While in our presence
the men always wore blue cotton trousers and the women loose dresses of
the same color, but when alone they threw aside all clothing.
Occasionally a light canoe containing women and children passed our
camping-site, but they always remained as near as possible to the
opposite bank and paid no attention to us whatever if we chanced to
call to them; in fact, they could not even be induced to look in our
direction.
The nights were always sultry and it rained frequently. If the weather
permitted, a huge fire was built; into this a steady stream of
fireflies or click-beetles winged their way to destruction. Late one
night we heard a queer pattering on the top of the tent-fly; back and
forth scurried the little feet, and up and down the sloping roof. Our
acetylene-lamps revealed a family of opossums which had discovered an
ideal playground. Often, too, we heard cautious footsteps near by, and
the suddenly flashed light disclosed the glowing eyes of a deer, tapir,
or jaguar, which gazed stupidly a moment into the dazzling brilliance
and then darted away.
On account of the dampness mould formed so rapidly that cameras and all
leather goods had to be cleaned daily, and there was great difficulty
in drying specimens.
We had frequent views of Duida. Each morning at about ten the mist
drifted from the summit and revealed the jagged, rocky peaks; our
calculations placed the altitude of the mountain at approximately five
thousand five hundred feet. Toward the Orinoco the mass presents a
bold front, the sheer walls of granite rising to a height of several
thousand feet. The western slope is gradual and any attempt to ascend
the mountain should be made from that side.
Cutting the trail required more time than we had anticipated. It was
our intention to remove the equipment to the very base of Duida,
and this was impossible until a suitable way had been prepared. The
intervening country is rolling and the hollows are filled with a
network of deep, water-filled canyons; across these trees had to be
felled to provide a means of crossing. Also, neither the Maquiritares
or the Venezuelans proved to be very industrious, and were about as
poor a class of assistants as can be found. However, work progressed
steadily, and there came the day when the last bridge had been placed
across the winding river, and we were able to proceed to the foot of
Duida.