As Mr. Cherrie and I were eager to devote every available moment to
zoological work, we left Fiala and Sigg, whose duty it was to look
after the rather appalling amount of luggage, and secured passage
on the Argentine Northwestern Railroad, which had just inaugurated
through service to Asuncion, Paraguay. We took only the small amount
of equipment necessary for few weeks’ work, as the two others were
to come up with the remainder of the baggage on the first available
freight-boat. Our train was the second to make the through trip and
was scheduled to run biweekly. It was composed of seven Pullmans,
two baggage, and a dining car; the service was good. Leaving Buenos
Aires on the afternoon of Sunday, November 2, we reached Rosario at
dark. Here the train was run onto a steel boat and carried up-river a
distance of sixty miles, after which it continued the journey on the
east bank of the Paraná. The next night we recrossed the river on a
ferry, and were landed at Encarnacion, Paraguay. Asuncion was reached
late on the afternoon of Tuesday.
The railway journey had been through level plains, interspersed at
long intervals with small clumps and strips of low woods; but it
is essentially a grazing country and we passed numerous herds of
cattle feeding on the vast, fence-enclosed ranges. Stalking about
unconcernedly among the herds were small bands of semi-domesticated
rheas, but they were not abundant; I doubt if we saw a hundred during
the entire trip. Caracaras, or carrion-hawks, glossy ibises, our old
friends the jacanas, which resembled huge grasshoppers when on the
wing, rails, and spur-wing plovers, or lapwings, were plentiful.
Frequently we saw the domed mud-nests of oven-birds perched upon fence
or telegraph-poles, or on the lower branches of trees. Villages are
few and far between, and the natives, a motley crowd of dark-skinned
individuals, usually left their shambling, grass-thatched huts and came
down _en masse_ to see the train.
Asuncion is a quaint old town, plainly showing the marks of violence
that have been left by frequent revolutions. Mr. Ferris, the American
consul, who met us at the station and rendered us every assistance
possible, had witnessed five revolutions in as many years; there had
been seven presidents in the same period of time. The streets of the
city are narrow and paved with cobblestones; the buildings are low,
constructed of adobe, and have red-tile roofs. There are one or two
banks, a college, several churches, a public market and good hotels,
as well as fair electric car and light service; there is also the
inevitable lottery. We noticed little business activity. An air of
depression seemed to hang like a pall over the people, and this
may be readily accounted for when one recalls the tragic history of
their country. Many of the women were in deep mourning. One authority
estimated that the proportion of women to men was eleven to one,
although this is probably an exaggeration.