_Yerba maté_ has much in common with both tea and coffee, but does not
contain as much tannin as either; of caffein it contains about as much
as coffee, and this imparts to it the sustaining virtues. In many parts
of the maté-drinking belt the beverage only is taken for breakfast,
and I have seen a man in western Argentina take thirty-two matéfuls in
rapid succession. The flavor is very agreeable and not unlike that of
rather strong tea.
After spending a few days at Trinidad we returned to Asuncion. A launch
was placed at our disposal, through the courtesy of the President of
the republic, and on November 11 we started on a short voyage up the
Rio Pilcomayo, into the Gran Chaco of Paraguay. Several men had been
sent with us to look after the luggage, which was carried in a separate
boat towed behind the launch, and three local naturalists, representing
the museum of Asuncion, went along to collect specimens for their
institution.
The Pilcomayo is a river of great size, coming from the northeast
and emptying into the Paraguay a short distance above Asuncion. The
greater part of its course is in the Gran Chaco, a wild, uninviting
region inhabited by savage Indian tribes, and of the interior of
which practically nothing is known. We proceeded up the river but
a comparatively short distance to the little settlement of Porto
Gallileo, the headquarters of a concern engaged in extracting tannin
from quebracho-logs. A comfortable home had been erected for the
management, and their attention and courtesy were most touching. They
were a polyglot community, consisting of a Frenchman, a Brazilian,
a Swede, an Argentinian, a Paraguayan, and a German. However, they
lived on the friendliest possible terms, and all co-operated for the
general good of the company. We came unexpectedly, so no preparations
had been made for our accommodation; but each man had a private store
of treasured articles from home hidden away somewhere, and before long
one brought sheets, another blankets, a third monogrammed towels, etc.,
until we were as comfortably provided for as any one could wish. The
men were very fond of a pet jaguar which they had taken when a cub,
but as the animal grew older its temper became uncertain, so it was
necessary to confine it in a barred cage. Its wild brethren came from
the forest at night to pay it a short visit occasionally, as attested
by the footprints left in the soft ground near the cage.
The factory at Porto Gallileo for the manufacture of tannin was of
considerable size. Upon arrival from the forest the trees were stripped
of bark, ground, and boiled in huge vats. The extract was boiled down
to a concentrate and pressed into small cakes; it is very valuable in
tanning hides, and its use shortens the time usually required for the
process. A number of valuable by-products are also obtained, including
dyestuffs.