Tapirapoan presented a scene of festive gayety upon the arrival of
the expedition. The large, open square around which clustered the
low, mud-walled huts was decorated with lines of pennants, while the
American and Brazilian flags fluttered from tall poles in the centre.
Flag raising and lowering were always impressive ceremonies; everybody
lined up and stood at attention while the banners were elevated or
taken down, as the case might be, to the strains of martial music.
However, if Tapirapoan bore a festive outward appearance, it acted
merely as a mask to cover up the general confusion that even a casual
inspection could not fail to disclose. Numbers of horses, mules, and
oxen had been gathered from the surrounding country; an array of
natives or _camaradas_ who were to have charge of the animals and the
impedimenta, had assembled, and several warerooms were filled with
provisions and equipment. To organize properly a cavalcade of such vast
proportions required some little time--in fact just six days. We did
not particularly regret the delay, for it gave us an opportunity of
making daily excursions into the near-by country. This was mostly of an
open character and yielded no big game, but it teemed with interesting
little creatures. Several small tracts of land were fenced in and
planted in maize, and it was wonderful to note how these restricted
areas had been discovered by small rodents which apparently came
from the surrounding wilds, found an abundance of food and favorable
conditions, and multiplied so rapidly that within a short time they
were so abundant as to be decidedly harmful. One would almost expect
their natural enemies to increase in the same proportion, but such
was obviously not the case. Wherever there was a patch of ground under
cultivation, rats and mice teemed, particularly the latter, belonging
to the genus _Oryzomys_; they are several times the size of a house
mouse, have rather short tails, and are of a very deep brown color. The
small burrows in which they live are made at the bases of weed-stalks,
bushes, and under fences and logs; or, lacking these protective agents,
they dig down into the ground almost anywhere. If one sits still for
a few minutes, preferably at dusk, they may see the beady-eyed little
animals steal forth, whiskers twitching nervously, and ears alert to
catch any sound which might apprise them of danger. I have never seen
them go very far from the protection of their underground runways;
and even while nibbling hurriedly at some tempting bit of food, they
frequently dash away suddenly, then stop short, look around, and come
back--all apparently without the slightest provocation.