On the morning of the 29th we crossed the Sacre on a pontoon boat and,
using a number of mules that had been previously sent there, rode the
two leagues to the Parecís Indian village of Utiarity. From afar we
could hear the deafening roar of water, and the Indians eagerly guided
us to a spot just below the settlement, where the Papagayo rushes over
the edge of a precipice and falls into the gorge below in one sheer
drop of two hundred and eighty feet. The river is fully five hundred
feet wide, and the quantity of clear, cold water it flows is enormous.
The spectacle of the descending wall of snowy water streaked with
various shades of green and blue, the idly floating mist-clouds, and
the thunderous roar is awe-inspiring. When it is remembered that these
falls are higher than Niagara, one can easily picture the wonderful
sight that meets the eye of the traveller in this virgin country.
The Parecís are a small tribe of semicivilized Indians who live in
substantial huts and cultivate fields of mandioca, corn, and sweet
potatoes. Formerly they were far more numerous, but an incessant
warfare with the neighboring tribes and contact with the outside world
have thinned their ranks until they are well on the road to extinction.
Some of them wore clothes, while many wore only a breech-cloth of their
own weaving. They also make hammocks and various articles for useful or
ornamental purposes.
In stature the Parecís is rather short, but he is well built and
sturdy. His color is a light shade of brown. The youths of the tribe
engaged in a curious game of head-ball, using for the purpose a hollow
rubber sphere a foot in diameter, manufactured by themselves. They
chose sides and batted the ball back and forth across a line with their
heads. At no time were the hands or feet used to strike or kick the
ball. They displayed remarkable dexterity and tireless energy at this
form of amusement; if the ball came bounding along the ground they made
headlong dives for it like a baseball-player sliding to home plate.
One evening just before sundown practically all of the men joined
in a sacred dance. On this occasion they were clothed in gaudy red
head-bands, bead neck-chains and belts, also anklets made of bunches
of curious dry seeds that kept up a continuous rattling sound as the
dancers stamped in rhythm with the low, sighing music of reed flutes.
They stopped at short intervals to drink chicha, and during certain
parts of the dance they sang the names of their dead warriors and
mighty hunters, calling upon them for guidance and assistance. We had
previously seen a blue-and-yellow macaw about the village; it had the
run of the place and seemed to be a great favorite with everybody.
While the dance was in progress the bird sat disconsolately on top of
one of the huts. Then we discovered that the Indians had pulled out its
tail-feathers and used them to decorate their head-dresses.