The trail had now left the open _chapadão_ and wound between high walls
of dark forest; instead of the monotonous level of the plain, the
country was broken and hilly, with numerous small streams trickling
through the dividing ravines, and it rained almost continuously; if we
had succeeded in evading the rainy season heretofore, it descended on
us now with doubled vigor.
A very wide swath had been cut through the forest for the
telegraph-line to protect the wires from falling trunks and branches;
so recent had been the work that the shrivelled leaves still clung to
the prostrate trees, and the thick second growth, which springs up
immediately where the sunlight is permitted to reach the ground, was
just sprouting. The ground was covered with fruits of many kinds, most
of them insipid or of acrid flavor, but the herds of peccaries seemed
to relish them; and the flocks of parrots and macaws quarrelled noisily
overhead in their struggles to reach some particularly appetizing
morsel. One of the things that especially attracted our attention was
the great number of hard, cannon-ball-like shells that littered the
trail; they were the empty casques of the _castanha_, or Brazil nut,
which grew abundantly throughout the forest. The Indians had opened
most of them, in what manner I am unable to say, as they are so hard
the blows of a hammer fail to make any impression, and extracted the
dozen or more triangular nuts from each. The trees upon which they grow
are remarkable for their height and great thickness; not infrequently
we saw one a hundred and fifty feet high and four feet in diameter
without a single branch lower than sixty or seventy feet. Graves
were numerous by the wayside; I counted fifteen, near one another,
each newly made mound being marked by a rude cross without name or
inscription; they indicated the burial sites of _camaradas_, victims to
the dread beri-beri and malaria.
During our second night’s camp we heard the gruff, cough-like roar
of a jaguar not far away, and next morning the men reported that the
creature had killed one of the oxen. I went to see the slain animal
and found that it was badly bitten about the neck and that one of the
thighs had been partly eaten; in its enfeebled state the ox had been
an easy kill for the big spotted cat. We made no attempt to follow the
jaguar, but shouldered our guns and started on the home-stretch of
the long journey. Again it rained heavily, though intermittently, and
frequently the mud was knee-deep: but the knowledge that the river and
rest lay but thirteen kilometres away acted as a stimulus to the men,
and even the weary animals responded to the ceaseless urging of their
drivers and panted along as if they, too, understood that the end of
their toil was at hand.