Birds were not uncommon, but rather hard to observe on account of the
density of the vegetation. Near the river stretched a wide band of
bamboo, beautiful to look upon but impossible to penetrate without
the aid of a machete. Just beyond, the trees grew tall and in close
proximity, giant _castanhas_, _heveas_, and ironwoods intermingling
their branches to form a canopy of deepest green, impervious to
sunlight and through which rain filtered slowly; palms, ferns, and
thorny shrubbery formed a dense undergrowth near the streams, so that
progress at best was slow. From all sides came the clear, ringing
“_hoo-whee-whee-hoo_” of the gold-bird, or whistling _cotinga_, often
misnamed the bell-bird, and although the sound came from but a few feet
overhead, it was usually impossible to locate the dull, slate-colored
songster perched motionless on a well-screened branch. The smaller
species of birds travelled in large flocks, doubtless deriving some
mutual benefit from this mode of living; usually the band was preceded
by a few scouting brown wood-hewers, some with slender bills four
inches long bent in a half-circle, flitting silently from trunk to
trunk, lighting low down and running up rapidly, while they searched
the crevices in the bark for insects; then came the vast host of
vireos, warblers, flycatchers, tanagers, and woodpeckers, completely
investing the trees in their all-absorbing quest of a livelihood.
Twigs snapped, seeds dropped, the woods seemed full of fluttering
wings and chirping voices; but in a few moments the noise grew faint
and stopped; the tireless army had gone its way, and the vanguard of
trogons suddenly appeared, hovered in mid-air to snap off an enticing
fruit, and then hurried away. Occasionally we were fortunate enough to
shoot a curassow, a large turkey-like bird, and then our Brazilian chef
prepared the national dish called _canja_; it consists of a fowl and
rice boiled together and is delicious.
On account of its large size, work on the dugout progressed slowly; a
section of the trunk, some thirty feet long, had been cut off where
the tree had fallen, and this was being hollowed out with adzes,
while short-handled axes were used in dressing down the exterior.
After twelve days of continuous hewing the dugout began to assume the
appearance of a seaworthy craft, and we figured that she would be ready
to launch at the end of another two weeks; but the next day a _batelão_
arrived. Her captain had been fighting his way up the Gy-Paraná over
three months in his efforts to reach Barão de Melgaço, having been sent
from the Madeira by order of Colonel Rondon.