Of course, the surveying canoes could not travel at this rapid pace,
so the two parties became separated. In the very beginning Captain
Amilcar’s party had suffered an accident which came near ending fatally
for several of the men in his canoe. Their work necessitated frequent
halts, and to bring the dugouts to a stop while racing down-stream
was no easy task; so they had adopted the method of driving them into
the vegetation and then holding on to the branches while a sight was
taken with the telemeter. On one of these occasions a bushmaster fully
seven feet long was shaken from the overhanging brush and fell into the
canoe; the panic-stricken crew leaped into the water. Captain Amilcar
retained his presence of mind and shot the snake, but in the meantime
several of the men had been swept down-stream and were on the verge
of drowning before he could reach them; the geologist had gone to the
bottom, but was rescued and revived with some difficulty; thereafter he
travelled with us in the _batelão_.
There were numbers of small alligators in the river, not over four feet
long, called _jacaretinga_; later on we had the cook prepare one, as
they were said to be good to eat. The flesh was of a white color when
cooked, and tender, but it possessed an objectionable muddy flavor, so
that we could eat but little of it; however, the natives liked it.
The next day we covered a distance of one hundred and eight kilometres.
The current in the Gy-Paraná is not so strong as in the Commemoração,
but, the weather being fair, the men pulled at the oars steadily
during the twelve hours’ travel, with only short periods for rest and
refreshment. All meals were cooked aboard, on a fire built on a box
of sand in the prow. Insects were not particularly troublesome, as
we kept to the middle of the stream, which, receiving the water of
numerous good-sized tributaries, was constantly growing wider. There
were abundant signs of the close proximity of Indians on both sides of
the river. We saw some palm-leaf lean-tos used for overnight stops,
with the charred sticks of a camp-fire in front; where the water
eddied slowly against a crumbling bank, bamboo stakes protruded above
the muddy stream--remnants of an ancient fish-trap--and occasionally
we passed a small cleared spot, now overgrown with rank weeds and
second-growth sprouts, which marked the site of an old plantation.