In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
Our next halt was forty kilometres farther down-stream at a rubber-camp
known as Urupá. There were several palm-leaf huts standing on a slight
elevation, so we took our hammocks and mosquito-nets and spent the
night ashore. Travelling eighty kilometres the next day, we reached
another rubber-camp called La Pena. The surrounding forest appeared
most attractive, and it was said that a footpath led far into the
interior to the side of an old Indian village, so I decided to remain
at this point a few days to collect. However, a short walk down the
trail soon showed that this plan was not feasible; the whole country
was inundated to a depth of several feet, and there were so many fallen
trees and clumps of thorny undergrowth that hunting was out of the
question.
[Illustration: A rubber-camp on the Rio Gy-Paraná.]
[Illustration: A rubber-camp on the Lower Gy-Paraná.]
The next day we reached Monte Christo, the depot of a large rubber
concern which has its headquarters on the Madeira; about one hundred
men had congregated here to await the coming of the dry season, when
they would begin collecting rubber-latex from the _hevea_-trees which
abound in the forest. Several long, thatched sheds housed the
waiting crowd; hammocks were strung from every available post and
rafter, giving the interior a cobwebby appearance, and around the
edges of the huts, protected from the rain by the low, ragged roof of
grass and leaves, numerous small fires smouldered, over which the men
boiled their rations of beans or _farinha_. There were pure blacks,
descendants of slaves who had been imported into Brazil from Africa
many years before; also Indians, Portuguese, and men in whose veins
flowed the blood of all three of these races. Many of them were ill
with fever, and had large, vile-looking ulcers or “jungle” sores,
which were said to result from the bite of a small fly. This was not
surprising, as the place was entirely surrounded by pools of black,
stagnant water in which clouds of mosquitoes hatched, and no sanitary
precautions whatever were taken against infection.
The natives are very fond of pets, and numbers of animals taken from
the forest while young were enjoying their full liberty, but never
ventured far from the houses. There was a collared peccary, full grown
and very amiable, which liked to be petted, and emitted short, low
moans and grunts when any one was near it; three curassows, dignified
but restless, spent much of their time preening their feathers on a
half-submerged log. They were beautiful creatures of a deep blue-black
color, with white under parts and a wonderful curled crest. A pair of
trumpeters strutted about the camp; monkeys of the _Cebus_ family and
parrots of several species climbed about in the network of hammocks and
added their chorus of screams and squawks to the general confusion.