After dark our men indulged in a curious native dance which I had never
seen before in South America; they collected a great heap of wood
and soon after supper had a roaring bonfire going; then they formed
a circle, with one man in the centre who began to sing in a high,
strained voice, and after each line the whole chorus answered with
a wail that sounded something like “_oh-tee-oh-tee-ah_.” The centre
man bowed and hopped about on one foot in a most ridiculous manner
and made frequent sudden charges into the surrounding company, and if
he succeeded in knocking one of them down that man took his place in
the middle of the ring. The whole performance looked very much like
an imitation of a cock-fight. Some of the onlookers had rattles made
of small calabashes full of pebbles stuck on a short piece of bamboo,
which they shook in rhythm with the singing; they seemed perfectly
insatiable of this form of amusement, and the dancing and howling
lasted far into the night.
Below São Feliz we found another small launch towing a _batelão_, which
in the course of a day took us to a camp called Tabajara. We had not
gone more than a few miles the next morning when further progress was
again barred by rapids. After a short walk we crossed a branch of the
river in small dugouts and then started on a two-mile portage through
the flooded forest. Another launch was waiting below the rapids, but
within twenty minutes after weighing anchor we again heard the roar of
troubled waters ahead of us; the river raced between high, rock-strewn
banks. In the distance we could see flecks of foam dotting the surface,
while a cloud of mist hung over the river; but from beyond the veil
that obstructed our further view came the ominous roar of a great
cataract, growing in intensity as we drew near. The landing was about
a hundred yards above the brink of the first fall, but the current
proved to be too strong for the launch’s little engine, and we were in
danger of being swept past; the moments that followed were exciting,
but fortunately we managed to reach the bank. This same thing had
occurred but a short time before, but the result had been disastrous;
the boat was swept over the falls, and, of the thirty-one men aboard,
twenty-seven were never seen again. The portage around these rapids,
called São Vicente, was about a mile and a half in length and led over
gently undulating country, all heavily forested. In many places the
bed-rock had been uncovered by the torrential rains. This consisted of
fine-grained, dark granite; usually there was a shallow layer of sand
on the rock, with a thick covering of rich black mould. From the top of
a high knoll we had a fairly good view of the falls and of the rapids
below; after leaping over a twenty-foot ledge the river rushes through
a narrow rock-filled gorge; enormous boulders tower out of the channel
like so many black, unvanquished monarchs. Tongues of spray leap to a