The country back of Calama is high and undulating, so that it remains
untouched by the water that covers the lowlands during the wet season.
A small space which had been cleared around the building was covered
with a fine growth of grass and low bushes, and served as pasture for
a few head of cattle; small birds, such as flycatchers, grass-finches,
and tanagers teemed in the opening, and many thick-billed green
parrots squawked in the tree-tops at the edge of the forest. A short
distance below the landing there was an extensive swamp and many small
brush-covered islands; masses of aquatic plants floated in the quiet,
open pools, conspicuous among which was the beautiful _Victoria regia_,
with leaves four feet in diameter. In the dense, tangled vegetation
that grew out of the black depths of the murky swamp-water we found
flocks of _hoatzins_, or lizard-birds, curious archaic creatures which
retain some of the characteristics of their reptilian ancestors; they
are about the size of a pheasant, of an olive color above and yellowish
below; a high crest crowns the head, and they possess only a limited
power of flight. It was the height of the nesting-season, and many of
the fragile platforms of sticks contained two or three yellowish eggs,
heavily spotted with reddish-brown; the wings of the young are provided
with long, sharp claws which enable them to climb about over the
branches like lizards; hence their name.
All travelling through the swamp had to be done in a canoe; and pushing
the dugout through the almost solid mass of branches and creepers was
a difficult task. Every twig seemed to swarm with small red ants,
called fire-ants, on account of the intense burning sensation produced
by their bites, and they were constantly dropping upon us in scores.
Several times we blundered into _maribundi_ nests, and in each instance
the outraged wasps promptly retaliated. Large _iguanas_ jumped out of
the trees into the water with a loud splash as we passed underneath,
and troops of woolly monkeys deserted the wild cashew-trees in which
they fed and beat a hasty retreat. The swamp was full of life, but we
rarely recovered anything we shot; the caymans and _piranhas_ with
which the water was infested usually snapped up our specimens before
we could reach them. At night we set throw-lines and caught the great
_pacu_, a fish of the _piranha_ family; but unlike its bloodthirsty
relative it prefers a vegetable diet. A _pirarucú_, six feet long and
weighing two hundred and fifty pounds, was also taken; this is the
largest fish that inhabits Amazonian waters; the scales are an inch and
a half in diameter and of a silvery color, those of the latter half
of the body being margined with deep scarlet. It is delicious, either
fresh or salted.