In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
After ten days the ship anchored off Callao; it is but a thirty
minutes’ train ride from this port to Lima. The route is flat and
runs through corn, banana, and yucca fields and truck-gardens. We
visited the creditable zoo and then accepted an invitation to inspect
the medical college. The latter is surprisingly well equipped and had
an attendance of over eight hundred students. The great cathedral
next occupied our attention; the massive temple was in itself most
interesting, but curiosity led me to spend the most of our limited time
viewing the remains of Pizarro, which are exhibited in a glass-panelled
marble casket. An inscription informs the viewers that the
_conquistador_ founded Lima in 1535; he died June 26, 1541, and was
buried under the cathedral; in 1891 the bones were exhumed and placed
in their present resting-place. If one may believe the statements of
historians, a monument built of the skeletons of his helpless victims
would be a far more suitable memorial to the bloodthirsty outlaw than
the place of worship which his remains of necessity must defile.
We had heard a great deal about the difficulty of landing at Mollendo.
At times the rollers from the south are so immense that ships do not
attempt an anchorage, but continue the voyage down to Arica. We were
relieved to find the sea perfectly smooth upon our arrival. The town
differed from Paita and Salavery only in that it was somewhat larger.
We found it possible to purchase through tickets to La Paz, and noon
saw us on our way. The railroad started up the barren slope almost
immediately; occasionally the incline was very gentle--so gentle, in
fact, that the country lay like a great brown desert on each side
of the track. These stretches were covered with crescent-shaped
sand-dunes, some of them fifty feet high and several hundred feet from
tip to tip. They creep slowly forward as the wind blows the sand up
their rear slope to the crest, when it topples over into the centre of
the half-moon.
At times the grade was very steep. The deep blue Pacific was visible
several hours, sometimes on our right and then on our left, as the
train wound up the mountainside, but always receding until it resembled
a vast mist-enshrouded amethyst losing itself in the distance.
Alkali-dust entered the coaches in clouds and threatened to suffocate
the passengers, but the impressiveness of the scenery more than
compensated them for this annoyance.