Through the kindness of our new friends we secured hand-cars on which
to resume the journey to the end of the line--about ten miles distant.
The baggage was placed on some of them while we occupied another.
The way lay down-hill and we dashed along at a great pace, taking
curves without diminished speed. There were several short tunnels, the
entrances of which loomed up like the black openings in a grotto; in a
flash we were plunged into absolute darkness; a moment later we raced
back into bright sunshine. Whenever an obstruction in the track ahead
was sighted the brakes were applied and then everything was carried
around and the trip continued. We met a good many Indians on the
road-bed; they preferred its use to the rocky trail along the river,
and even drove their burros and llamas on it. All employees of the
company had orders to punish any one found on the track, in order that
they might learn to keep off it, as there would otherwise be a great
loss of life when trains begin their runs over the line. The favorite
form of chastisement consisted of pouncing on the Indians and taking
their hats away from them. The head-gear was taken several miles down
the track and thrown into the top of a cactus or thorny tree. If the
offender resisted the seizure of his hat he was told that he might have
it by calling on the foreman of the nearest construction-camp; when he
arrived a good lecture was given him and in some instances a fine was
imposed.
It took several hours to reach the end of the line, as landslides and
the attendant portages around them had been numerous. We spent the
remainder of the day and the night at Arce, an Indian village. Several
hundred Quechuas had gathered, as it was market-day; they brought a
good deal of cloth and beautiful blankets to sell, but their prices
were several times those asked in more remote regions. At night the
assembly played on reed flutes and native guitars, sang, danced, and
drank _chicha_; the revelry lasted until the first gray streaks of dawn
appeared over the mountain-top, and then the mob dispersed to their
distant homes in the high valleys.