In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
Among the city’s institutions deserving of special mention is the
Cochabamba Institute, founded in 1911. The instructors are nearly all
Americans of the type one meets all too rarely in South America,
and who are really doing a great and noble work in furthering the
educational and moral progress of the country. Several hundred students
of both sexes, from many and remote parts of Bolivia, attend the
literary and business classes of the college, live under the care
and refining influence of its instructors, and, as I subsequently
discovered, introduce into their homes the desirable and elevating
qualities which they have acquired.
To the northwest towers the Cerro Tunari, a mountain over fifteen
thousand feet high and of imposing appearance. It rises in majestic
proportions above the uneven summits of the cordillera, in a manner
befitting a snow-crowned monarch of the range.
We spent several days in the city, adding to our outfit and purchasing
mules, and then started eastward _en route_ to the Beni district; it
was our intention to go slowly and stop at places which offered a
suitable field for our operations.
Leaving Cochabamba on the afternoon of May 9, 1915, we rode the fifteen
miles to the town of Sacaba, arriving there at dusk. The intervening
country is thickly settled, and large areas are irrigated and planted
in alfalfa, maize, wheat, grapes, and vegetables. Nearly all the
inhabitants are Indians of the Quechua race.
Beyond Sacaba the trail adheres closely to the bed of a small stream,
and ascends at a steep angle. Numerous little canals carry the water
along the mountainside, and the country is dotted with small stone huts
surrounded by carefully cultivated fields; this is made possible by the
fact that the rivulet never dries, but, on the contrary, supplies a
constant stream of water of sufficient volume to irrigate a large area.
The canals have been dug with great precision; each family uses only as
much as required, and at stated intervals, so there is enough for all.
The trail goes up steadily until an elevation of twelve thousand feet
is reached. As we neared the top a strong wind sprang up, so that it
was difficult to keep one’s place in the saddle. The mountainside is
covered with small, round rocks of uniform size, such as one would
usually expect to find in a dry river-bed.
Beyond the high summit of the first ridge lies the high mountain
valley in which is located the Quechua village of Cuchicancha (meaning
“pig-pen”). There are several score of huts scattered about in little
groups, and built of rocks, with thatched roofs. The Indians speak
practically no Spanish, and live in much the same way as they did
in the days of Atahualpa. In order to cultivate the land they have
gathered the rocks which everywhere carpet the ground into huge piles,
and also built fences of them; large quantities of potatoes, ocas, and
avas are grown.