The trees were tall and straight, and there was dense undergrowth near
the rivers only. Mosses and epiphytes, so typical of the subtropical
zone, were almost lacking, but frequently the wind brought the
delightful fragrance of ripening vanilla-beans and the perfume of
flowers. Great clusters of scarlet trumpetflowers dangled from the tips
of slender vines, and from the tops of many of the trees drooped long
garlands of huge white-and-blue flowers that resembled sweet peas; some
of these blooms were two inches in diameter. There were also clumps of
terrestrial orchids on some of the rocks, with slender spikes of deep
purple flowers waving daintily under the impulse of each passing breeze.
Seven days after leaving Cochabamba we came suddenly upon the little
cluster of grass and bamboo houses known as Todos Santos; there were
exactly seven of them, two of which were of large size, partially
enclosing a wide plot of ground carpeted with soft green grass. Tall
forest hemmed in the settlement on three sides, and the Rio Chaparé,
flowing through deep banks, formed the boundary on the fourth side.
The largest building was occupied by the _corregidor_, or federal
agent, who generously provided us with accommodations; in addition to
the several living-rooms there was an immense wareroom stored with
hides, salt, and other articles of commerce. The remainder of the
houses were occupied by families of Bolivians who possessed land or
concessions in the neighborhood, and owned numbers of Indians of the
Yuracaré tribe; these latter lived in long sheds built in the rear of
the dwellings of the people they served. There was also a small church,
but no shops of any description. In spite of its inconsiderable size,
Todos Santos is a place of importance because it serves as an outlet
for commerce from Cochabamba and Bolivia in general, and is the port
of entrance for hides from Trinidad, and merchandise entering by way
of the Amazon and Madeira-Mamoré Railroad. A small steamer, the _Ana
Catarina_, was tied up against the bank, waiting for the water to rise
sufficiently for her to proceed down the river; this boat plies more or
less regularly between Todos Santos and Trinidad, and requires three
days for the downward trip, and five days coming up. From Cochabamba
to Trinidad is a distance of approximately two hundred and sixty-five
miles, one hundred and sixty-five overland and one hundred on the river.
During the dry season steam-navigation on the Chaparé is very
irregular, but canoes of large size and native paddlers may always be
had. During the rainy season there is a small steamer or launch each
fortnight.