Several miles from port, and entirely concealed by the forest,
stretches a lagoon of considerable size; it is connected with the
Chaparé by a small, brush-clogged creek, but the water is stagnant
and filled with decaying vegetation and detritus. Masses of bushes
and swamp-grass grow all along the borders, and in some sections the
surface of the water is covered with floating, aquatic plants. As may
be supposed, many species of birds live both about the water and in
the dense thickets that line the banks. Among the former was the rare
little sun-grebe, but it was by no means abundant; the few solitary
individuals we saw were always surprised out in the open water and,
after giving a series of hoarse, loud cries, either flew or swam as
rapidly as possible to the nearest clump of vegetation, which offered
a secure retreat. Graceful jacanas stepped about daintily on the
lily-pads; their toes are very long and give the feet a wide spread,
thus enabling the birds to walk on the floating little islands of
water-hyacinths and wild lettuce; for this reason the natives call them
_pájaro de Jesu-cristo_, because they can “walk on the water.”
Several species of flycatchers and large, noisy wrens (_Donacobia_)
lived in the partly submerged bushes; we found several of the bulky,
domed grass nests of the former, but it was almost invariably
impossible to reach them as they always harbored colonies of biting
ants, which rushed out in maddened frenzy when the nest was touched;
however, the birds and ants seemed to live in perfect harmony.
In the tangles of tall bamboo growing on the bank and drooping out over
the water lived flocks of hoatzins and numbers of several species of
_dendrocolaptine_ birds or wood-hewers; also an occasional water-turkey
and cormorant. Many black-and-white ibises soared above in circles
and at a great height; they acted not unlike vultures, but the long,
outstretched neck and legs immediately gave a clew to their identity.
The forest was full of surprises. One morning my companion encountered
a tamanduá ant-eater which was on the ground, and refused to realize
that the close proximity of man meant danger; he was but lightly armed,
and shot the tough, thick-skinned animal with the 32-bore auxiliary
tube of his shotgun, and number 12 shot--an unheard-of feat.