A narrow-gauge railroad connects Cochabamba with Arani, almost due
east; Tarata is about half-way between the two. We took the train and
sent our own mules overland, in charge of one of the men. It required
but two hours to make the trip. The entire region is naturally of a
barren, desolate nature; nevertheless it is densely populated with
Quechua Indians. The low, earthen huts cover the desert-like plain and
are so like it in color that it is at first impossible to distinguish
them. During the short rainy season crops of wheat and other grain are
sown, and their growth is later promoted by means of irrigation. They
also cultivate grape-vines, and their small clumps of peach and apricot
trees were in full bloom.
The train stopped at numerous little stations, and at each of them
gayly dressed Quechua squaws sold fried eggs, boiled corn, and bread.
Occasionally they also had stew or meat pies, but these were always to
be regarded with suspicion. Our boy told us that cavies are ordinarily
used in preparing the meat foods; but a woman tried substituting toads
on one occasion, with the result that those who partook of the delicacy
became violently ill.
Crowds of Indians boarded and left the train at each station. The
accommodations at their disposal resemble cattle-cars from the outside,
but have two long benches running through the centre. The fare is
very low, and the Indians are fond of travelling, so the cars were
invariably crowded to suffocation. In addition to the mass of humanity
each person carried a huge parcel, pail, or basket, that filled the
few interstices. The Quechuas and Cholos are a good-natured lot among
themselves, and do not in the least mind being placed in such close
proximity with one another.
We reached Tarata in two hours. It is a town of considerable size;
the elevation is nine thousand eight hundred feet, and it is desolate
beyond description. The inhabitants are largely Indians of an
independent temperament, though living in abject poverty. We found
it almost impossible to secure lodging, or to find help to carry our
luggage up from the station, so appealed to the chief of police, who
rounded up a number of men and placed them at our disposal. Perhaps our
difficulty was due partly to the fact that the Indians were celebrating
a religious holiday. They had taken an image of a saint from the church
and were carrying it back and forth through the streets. A group of
them preceded the procession and set off pinwheels and cannon crackers,
while those following also employed explosives of various kinds with
which to add to the din. The people are so fond of this sort of pastime
that it is difficult to persuade them to desist long enough to perform
any service, no matter how slight; and the guise of religious fervor
gives them license to indulge in acts that would not be tolerated at
other times.