At Chilón we entered the heart of the giant-cactus forest--and it can
be properly known by no other name. The country, far as the eye can
see, is covered with the thorny plants; some of the giant club-cacti
rear their fluted columns to a height of sixty to seventy-five feet,
and are of majestic appearance. There are also immense clumps of
prickly-pear and several other varieties, while low, trailing kinds hug
the rocky earth; the latter are rather unpleasant as one frequently
strikes against them in walking, and the sharp spines penetrate
shoe-leather and are extracted from the foot with difficulty; mules
frequently get them into their noses while nibbling on leaves or the
few blades of coarse grass, and are driven almost frantic with the
pain. Many of the club-cactus plants bore an abundance of round fruit
about two inches in diameter and covered with long, velvety down; when
the outer covering was brushed off a smooth, red berry was revealed; it
is very sweet and the flavor reminds one of strawberries.
Chilón is a settlement of twenty-five or thirty huts; its elevation
above sea-level is five thousand six hundred feet, but the climate is
very hot. We put up in one of the hovels where there was also a corral
for the mules, and proceeded to work along the banks of the Rio Chilón,
which is a small tributary of the Rio Mizque. The stream is rapid and
shallow, and flows over a rock-strewn bed. Numbers of fish, including
rays, were plainly visible through the clear water. The majority of
the birds inhabiting the thorny jungle that grows on both sides of
the watercourse, were still of the arid upland type; but there was
a further encroachment of a foreign fauna, and the brown-shouldered
orioles, coral-billed tinamou, and red-tailed parrakeets left no doubts
in our minds of the origin of their distribution. They were the advance
ranks of a stream of bird-life flowing up the valley of the Rio Grande
and its tributaries, where conditions are at least somewhat similar to
those obtaining in the chaco country to the east, which is their normal
habitat.
Apparently the red-tailed parrakeets were mating. Large groups sat on
the branches of some stunted tree, preening one another’s plumage, and
emitting queer ani-like wails. If one observed closely, however, it
could be seen that the flocks were always broken up into pairs that
were snuggled up as closely together as possible.