From a short distance the valley and the slopes above California appear
to be heavily forested, but a close inspection showed that there was
but a dense growth of low, dry woods, the trees not exceeding forty
feet in height; the interlocking branches were draped with long
streamers of grayish moss. The ground was perfectly clean and one could
see a long distance ahead in the greenish-gray light. The surroundings
were almost weird; subconsciously one expected to find strange
sacrificial altars, and bearded Druids officiating at some gruesome
rite of a mythical religion. Beautiful little deer walked timidly among
the column-like trunks of the garlanded sanctuary, sniffing the air,
and nibbling daintily at a leaf or twig, and made the hunter feel like
an intruder in a consecrated place.
Upon our return to Comarapa we met a gentleman representing a
mercantile establishment in Cochabamba. He was making his semiannual
tour of the region, taking orders for merchandise, and collecting for
goods sold on the previous trip. Most of his customers paid with silver
and nickel coins, so that he had several mule-loads of money in his
possession. One night our Indian boy came to us in a state of great
excitement. He had been drinking _chicha_ in an Indian liquor-store
together with the _peons_ belonging to the merchant, and one of them,
while under the influence of drink, boasted that he expected to murder
and rob his _patrón_. A plan had been carefully formed to suddenly
attack the man from behind, while riding along a lonely and precipitous
part of the trail. The body was then to be thrown over the precipice
into the river below, where no one would ever discover it, and the
money taken by the highwayman and his accomplice. Naturally, we lost
no time in imparting this information to the traveller, and he at once
interviewed the would-be assassin. He first of all questioned the man
carefully, and when he had succeeded in obtaining a partial confession,
he mauled him back and forth across the room until he was tired out.
Thereafter we all travelled together, and the plotter, as further
punishment, was deprived of his horse and compelled to walk in advance
of the party day after day. He had been in the merchant’s employ six
years, and the latter did not care to turn him over to the police, but
was certain that the punishment inflicted was sufficient to inspire
proper respect in the future.
A brisk canter of eighteen miles took us from Comarapa to Pulcina, also
known as San Isidro. A tame condor was standing dolefully in the centre
of the open square about which the houses were built; it was a friendly
bird and liked to be petted and to romp, but was pretty rough at times,
and picked off pieces of skin during the course of its rather too
affectionate caresses.