With the exception of the tracts cleared for cultivation, and the bare
sandstone summits, the country is covered with light forest. There is
practically no moss, but a dense undergrowth of climbing bamboo and
a few palms and ferns. As a whole, the vegetation does not greatly
resemble that of the true subtropic or cloud-forest zone, and as this
was its upper limit and three thousand and five hundred feet above
sea-level, it should have been of the subtropic type, if any exists
in the region. We may, therefore, safely conclude that this marks the
ending of the zone of cloud forest existing on the eastern slope of the
Andes during practically their entire course north of this point.
Birds were not very common, and of comparatively few species; but the
fauna is entirely different from that of the uplands. The brilliant
little tanagers (_Calliste_), so typical of the mountain forest, are
conspicuously absent. There were, however, several kinds of warblers,
and wrens, parrots, and other birds properly belonging to such a
region. A black-and-white guan (_Pipile_) was really plentiful, and
while the distribution of the species is very great, I had always
considered it a rare bird. It is about twenty-eight inches long, and
of a bronzy-black color. The top of the head and a large blotch on the
wings are white; the naked cheeks and a long throat-caruncle are of a
delicate shade of grayish blue. The bird’s rasping cry may be heard
morning and evening, as it takes wing and alternately soars and flaps
from one tree to another, or skims over the top of the forest. Adult
birds weigh up to four pounds and are killed for food on every possible
occasion, as the flesh is very good. The individuals I examined had
been feeding on green leaves swallowed whole.
Jays in flocks followed us about in the forest and kept up a constant
screaming and scolding. It was impossible to escape them without using
drastic measures. They were a great nuisance, as their cries frightened
other forms of wild life away; both the black-fronted blue and the
green-and-yellow species mingled in the same flocks.
[Illustration: Vermejo on the Santa Cruz trail.]