Those living near Pulqué seldom come down into the lower country;
doubtless they are happier in their almost inaccessible fastness than
if they lived nearer to their Bolivian neighbors. In appearance and
dress these Indians differ greatly from the other members of the tribe
living in the more populous sections of the country. Instead of the
more or less conventional attire adopted by the latter, they still
adhere to a form of dress at least a part of which may date back to
the time of Atahualpa. The women wear a quantity of clothing--short,
full skirts of dark blue, and shawls of varied colors. The men are
garbed in loose, white knee-breeches, a gray or blue shirt, and belts
which are neatly embroidered in gay colors and are very wide at the
back so that they form a kind of sash; also, they wear the inevitable
_poncho_. Strange as it may seem, the small children always wear very
long clothing, and the little girls waddling along in their full,
almost trailing skirts, resemble dwarfed aged women. All the apparel is
made of woollen cloth of home manufacture. The men permit their hair
to grow long and braid it in a queue which hangs down the back. Both
sexes use peculiar little hats made of some kind of skin prepared by a
process which renders it very hard; this head-gear reminded me of steel
helmets. With the exception of huge spoon-shaped pins of copper, which
the women used to fasten their shawls, we saw no metal ornaments or
jewelry of any kind.
The home life of these Quechuas is tranquil and uneventful. Usually the
little stone huts contain two or three rooms; potatoes, avas, and other
produce are stored in one of them, and the rest are used for cooking
and sleeping-quarters. In very cold weather a fire is kept burning
day and night, and all the occupants of a house burrow deep into a
pile of sheepskins and blankets close to the smouldering embers. We
persuaded one of the women to bring goat’s milk to camp each morning,
but in this we had the greatest difficulty. Only by payment for a
week’s supply in advance could she be induced to perform this service.
With past experiences with their fellow countrymen these Indians have
learned to regard all strangers with apprehension. On several occasions
we had ample opportunity to observe how the average _paisano_ treats
the Quechua. Should night overtake him on the trail, he stops at
the nearest hut and demands food for himself and his horses. In the
event that the owner has nothing to offer, he draws revolver or rifle
and shoots any fowls that may be running about or, lacking these, a
sheep or goat, and seizes whatever else he can find. Should he see an
attractive blanket, it also is taken. In the morning a few _centavos_
are thrown on the ground and he continues on his journey.