A group of newly erected shacks, low and so lightly built of
packing-cases and corrugated sheet iron that many of them resembled
mere skeletons of houses; narrow, crooked streets; shops loaded with
fruits and conducted by Italians, and others festooned with bandanna
handkerchiefs, gaudy wearing apparel and cheap jewelry, and owned
by Turks or Syrians; gambling and liquor houses; a motley crowd of
slovenly, not overdressed people, and a tropical sun blazing down
mercilessly on the whole assemblage. That is Embarcacion, the “farthest
east” to date in the north-eastern part of Argentina’s vast Chaco. I
was told that as the railroad is extended farther and farther into the
interior, many of the residents take down their abodes and ship them to
the new station where they are re-assembled; and so a great portion of
the town moves bodily at different intervals.
On all sides lies the seemingly limitless Chaco. There is practically
no cultivation and but few herds of cattle had been introduced to date.
In addition to the great possibilities for cattle-raising, the country
also possesses enormous wealth in quebracho-wood; at present quantities
of it are cut for use as fuel in the locomotives of several of the
railroads. Within a short time, no doubt, these assets will be utilized
in a manner that will be advantageous to both the exploiters and the
country at large.
One of the interesting discoveries in the pampas was a wintering-place
for bobolinks. The extent of this bird’s migration had been shrouded
in mystery, and but a single specimen in winter plumage had ever been
recorded. We found them in flocks of thousands, perched in the top
of the tall grass or picking up seeds from the ground. Their cheery
song was conspicuously absent. They were in spotted plumage. Small
red-breasted meadow-larks (_Leistes_) mingled freely with the bobolinks.