Tafí del Valle is a most delightful place. Even though the altitude
is seven thousand feet, the surrounding peaks shut in the valley and
protect it from the icy winds. There is no natural forest in this
region, but groves of willows have been planted near the houses; to
these, large numbers of birds came to spend the night. Hawks were
especially abundant and of many kinds--we collected no fewer than
seventeen species during our ten days’ stay; then there were also
burrowing owls, larks, flycatchers, thrushes, and many other birds.
Some species which ordinarily live in brush-covered country had
become adapted to their barren surroundings and were nesting in holes
excavated in banks of earth. When the birds had reared their broods,
rats, mice, and pigmy opossums occupied the old nesting-sites.
A clear, cold stream, which flows through one side of the valley,
spreads out at the lower end over a large area, forming lagoons and
marshes. Geese, ducks, coots, night-herons, and sandpipers made these
places a favorite resort. Pectoral sandpipers were not uncommon, and
were so fat that they were unable to fly and could be taken with the
hands. There were also flocks of stilts; they are beautiful creatures,
either when flying in compact formation, with measured wing-beats
and outstretched necks and legs, or when standing motionless in the
shallow water, their snowy underparts reflected in quivering outlines.
Lapwings screamed and cackled in resentment of our visit and frequently
frightened away flocks of water-fowl which we were stalking.
Apparently our _Scytalopus_ was not a bird of the open highlands. We
even began to wonder if it existed at all, because, so far, the most
thorough search had failed to reveal any trace of it. There remained,
however, the high _paramo_ above, and to this we next turned our
attention.