We scouted the forests daily, confining our search to the untrodden
ravines of the Rio Naranjos, a turbulent, wicked stream that joins the
Magdalena a short distance below. Great precipices flank its sides and
the water rushes through dark, narrow gorges. Everywhere the river-bed
is dotted with great boulders against which the water dashes with
a force that sends clouds of spray into the air. The slopes of the
mountains and ravines are covered with a dense palm jungle, the trees
laden with bunches of purple berries. It is in places such as these
that the cock-of-the-rock spends its existence. After several weeks of
the most strenuous work our efforts were rewarded: we came suddenly
upon a flock of male birds in the top of a palm, the bright scarlet
color of the wonderful creatures flaming among the deep-green fronds
in a dazzling manner as they flitted about, and with outstretched
necks and raucous “_eur-rr-ks_” surveyed the disturbers of their
time-honored solitude. We were the first human beings to penetrate
their jungle fastness and excited curiosity rather than fear. The mere
sight of these beautiful birds in their wild surroundings was worth
all the discomforts of the long journey. In size they are no larger
than domestic pigeons, but the color is of a most intense and brilliant
scarlet, with wings and tail of black; the upper wing-coverts are of a
light shade of gray, and the eyes and feet are golden yellow; a flat
crest an inch and a half high completely covers the head and hides the
yellow bill. The female is of a dull shade of brown.
We wanted to find their nests and to study their home life, of which
little was known; also to secure material for the museum group. With
the aid of Indians, and ropes made of creepers, we began to explore the
face of the cliffs, some of which were a hundred feet high. On many
of the steep slopes the palms grew so close together that we utilized
them as ladders. As it rained nearly every day the footholds were very
slippery, and many times one or another of the party fell, being saved
from being dashed on the rocks far below only by the rope that bound us
together.
One day, as we crept along slowly and painfully, we flushed a bird of
sombre brown from a great boulder that rose from the centre of the
stream. We waited breathlessly while she fluttered about in the palms
and then returned to the rock. She flew many times back and forth,
carrying food in her bill, and at last I discerned a dark object
against the face of the rock upon which the bird centred her attention.
There was no longer cause for concealment, so we moved to the edge of
the torrent and saw the grass and mud nest plastered against the face
of the rock; below raged a whirlpool, and on each side there was a
waterfall. A more inaccessible spot could not have been chosen by the
bird, whose haunts had never been violated.