One day a party of Indians made camp on the bank of a creek not
far from La Danta, and immediately built a rock and mud dam across
the little waterway. Then they crushed a great many leaves of the
yucca-plant and threw them into the stream. The milky juice quickly
mingled with the water, and soon scores of catfish came to the top,
stupefied by the poison, and floating on their backs. They were
gathered by the basketful and taken away by the Indians. These catfish,
living in rapid mountain streams, are provided with a sucking disk
which enables them to attach themselves to a rock to rest; otherwise
they would be washed down stream, as they are not very powerful
swimmers.
The cost of being married is so high in some South American countries
that in many cases the ceremony is dispensed with. Occasionally,
however, bands of missionaries visit a region and attempt to undo the
wrong inflicted by the local _padres_ by uniting in marriage free of
charge all those who appear before them for that purpose. The _padres_
are not always to blame; frequently the inhabitants are simply too
indifferent or lazy to go through the formalities, or there may be no
one in their midst to look after their spiritual wants.
While we were at La Danta a half-dozen priests came to Guadaloupe
and urged the _paisanos_ to take advantage of this opportunity to
become united in wedlock according to the ritual of the church. The
people listened to the exhortations, promised to heed the admonitions,
and--failed to show up at the proper time. Then the _padres_ lost
patience and talked the matter over with the _jefe_. The latter sent
out soldiers to scour the country and bring in all the offenders living
together within a radius of many miles; the pairs were frequently
brought in handcuffed together, all objections and excuses being
promptly overruled or ignored by the officiating clergy. Then they were
lined up and married.
Several weeks later I was the guest of a very high government official
in another state. In the course of dinner conversation the _señora_
asked me in the most casual way: “Tell me! In your country, do
people get married, or _así, no más_ like here?” The last phrase was
accompanied by a dainty snap of the fingers. I am afraid I said: “_Así,
no más!_”
From _peons_ working on the new road we learned that their operations
had extended to a point near the top of the range, and that a _tambo_,
or rest-shack, had been built there to shelter the laborers. We
immediately started for the place and by dint of hard travel reached
it in one day’s time. The shack bore the name Andalucia and was seven
thousand nine hundred feet up. The _peons_ gladly shared their quarters
with us, and we divided our rations with them, which must have been a
welcome change from their everlasting boiled corn and _panela_.