In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
This “work during the rainy season in the humid Amazonian forests of
the Caquetá, where with only unskilled native assistance he secured
eight hundred and thirty birds and mammals in thirty days, is a feat
in tropical collecting.” And “this locality ... was one of the most
productive of any visited by American Museum expeditions, and many
species were secured which have not heretofore been recorded from
Colombia.”
CHAPTER VIII
ACROSS THE ANTIOQUIAN GOLD-FIELDS TO PUERTO VALDIVIA ON THE LOWER CAUCA
Puerto Berrio is not the most attractive spot in Colombia, but it is
nevertheless of a great deal of importance. All steamers plying on
the Lower Magdalena stop at that port, the up-going ones after a six
days’ voyage from Barranquilla to discharge freight for Medellin, and
those bound down-stream to take aboard gold and other products of the
Antioquian highlands.
The arrival of the steamer always causes a great deal of confusion.
Debarking passengers are required to look after their own luggage,
which is not a simple matter, as it is invariably covered with
mountains of boxes and bags on the lower deck; and after it has been
located it is necessary to secure _peons_ to convey it ashore, the
ship’s crew invariably refusing to render this service.
There is always a rush for the little hotel “Magdalena,” built on a
slight bluff overlooking the river. Accommodations are limited, and
those who arrive first naturally have the advantage of selecting the
cooler rooms in the upper story. However, the advantages gained are
partly imaginary, at best. The climate is insufferably hot in the
daytime, and mosquitoes filtering through rents in the nets protecting
the beds are most annoying at night. Nor is it possible to seek the
cooling comfort of a bath; a small, corrugated iron building in the
garden is supposed to provide for this need, but a tank containing
water for the shower is placed on the roof in the full glare of the
tropical sun, and the water becomes heated to such a degree that it is
almost scalding.
The town of Puerto Berrio is situated a few hundred yards below the
landing. It contains about a hundred low buildings, many of which are
utilized for shops where merchandise and, more important at least to
transients, a great variety of fruit may be had. All the buildings are
low--some constructed of adobe with red tile roofs, others of nothing
more substantial than bamboo, and grass or palm-leaves.