On the fifth day we reached an altitude of eight thousand feet, and
entered a fine strip of forest, the first we had seen on this journey.
This is the beginning of the forested zone, and close scrutiny
revealed the fact that it begins at precisely the same height on both
the Central and Coast Ranges, and continues to the very top of the
mountains, several thousands of feet higher up. We travelled along the
top of the ridge for some miles, and then again descended abruptly to
the barren valley where the little village of Peque is situated, and
where our journey by mules ended.
Peque contains about fifty dilapidated mud huts, and its population is
mostly of Indian descent, but includes some pure-blooded Indians. We
had a letter of introduction to one of the latter, Julian David, who
is the chief man in the town, and he rendered us every assistance. He
called together a number of sturdy young half-breeds and requested them
to join the expedition; in other words, told them to carry our packs to
the top of the Paramillo. The men eagerly agreed to do this, for they
had never before been in the service of strangers, and the trip to the
high country and also the society of _gringos_ promised interesting
possibilities. We spent a few days investigating the neighboring
country, while the men had their wives prepare the provisions for their
use during the trip.
Some of the country surrounding Peque once doubtless bore a light
forest growth, with heavier forest in the ravines; but by far the
greater part is naturally barren or covered with brush thickets. I was
told that at the time of the Spanish invasion forty thousand Indians
inhabited the region, and as the several mountain streams supply an
abundance of water, and the soil responds fairly well to cultivation,
there seems to be no reason why it should not have supported an
extensive population; at the present time only a few hundred people are
left, the others having gone to swell the ranks of victims exacted by
the lust of the conquerors.
The forested zone, beginning at eight thousand feet on the ridge we
had just traversed, gradually extends its limits downward as one goes
farther north, until at Peque it reached as low as five thousand feet
in the deeper and well-watered ravines; and, as previously stated, at
Puerto Valdivia it reaches the very edge of the Cauca.