Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
With the dragoman heading the company we rode into Nazareth single file
just as the sun went down. He seemed delighted to be leader of such a
large party of tourists, and as we marched along the people looked amazed
at the turnout. Our stay at this place was longer than at any of the
preceding places, for reaching there Saturday evening gave us Sunday as
an extra day of rest, as on that day no traveling was done.
Our tents were pitched near the “Virgin’s Fountain,” which is considered
one of the holy places of the city, because it is thought that Mary,
the mother of Jesus, was in the habit of going there for water. We took
pleasure in watching the women fill their large jars, which held perhaps
three gallons of water. Mothers with tiny babies upon their arms went to
the fountain, and young, laughing girls mingled with the crowd. Some of
them were in a hurry, while many stopped long enough to have a pleasant
chat and tell a bit of news. One would naturally suppose a jar holding
three gallons of water would be a heavy burden to carry; but the women
helped each other place them upon the head, after which the individual
walked off unconcerned, seemingly not having a fear as to the vessel
tumbling off. The bearing of water seemed to be one of the burdens placed
upon the women of that country, and they bore it cheerfully. Not a man
was to be seen carrying the smallest vessel. It was the custom for women
to carry water in Abraham’s time, for we read that when a servant was
sent to seek a wife for Isaac, and a certain city was reached, “he made
his camels to kneel down without the city by a well of water at the time
of the evening, even the time that women go out to draw water.”
The Sabbath Day Was not spent resting in our tents, for we had too
strong a desire to see something of the “city of Jesus.” No doubt you
remember that Mary and Joseph had their home in Nazareth before going
up to Bethlehem to be taxed; but the Nazareth of Joseph and Mary’s
time is not the Nazareth we looked upon, for since then battles have
been fought there, and the city destroyed several times. It has been
rebuilt, however, and each time the original site was used. The natives
were bright-faced and rather neatly dressed, and the contrast between
this city and others was great. We were not surprised to learn that
Protestantism had a hold there, and that solved the mystery.