Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
One hundred and seventy-two miles had been traveled from the time we
mounted our horses at Jerusalem up to the time Nazareth was reached,
and every mile of the way was traveled on horseback. It is hard to tell
how much suffering many of the poor horses endured, for the condition
of their backs was distressing. Only two out of the eighteen were in
good condition, and we two rode them. Some of the saddles fitted the
horses’ backs poorly, and that caused the skin to rub off, which created
a large sore place. When the hostlers removed the saddles in the evening
our sympathies were aroused, for never before had we seen anything to
equal the raw state of those horses’ backs. The men did not fancy having
spectators, and their faces indicated their displeasure; but we looked
anyway, and left when it suited us. The Arabs may have neglected to
give the animals proper care and attention, thus helping the sore to
grow larger and more inflamed. If the men had been less idle and more
attentive probably the faithful animals would have been in better trim
for traveling. Some of the horses were a little tricky, for they had a
habit of rolling. No matter whether on a smooth road or in a mud puddle,
when the desire to roll came to them down they went, and the patience of
the ladies was sorely tried, for they were sure to be upon the animals’
backs. The riders never thought it a funny thing for them to do, but
those who looked on naturally smiled.
Sunday’s rest at Nazareth was quite a benefit to us, and Monday morning
we were up early, ready for the onward march.
As we rode out of camp, the Virgin’s Fountain was again passed, and once
more we saw the water carriers busy. Bidding adieu to Nazareth we rode up
a steep hill, and looking back saw the white houses as they stood in the
bright sunlight. The last look was taken, and we passed over the brow of
the hill, feeling sure that the city of Jesus would be seen no more by us.
Kefr Kenna is a small village through which we passed, and where a short
stop was made. For centuries it was thought to be Cana of Galilee, where,
in the time of Christ, there was a marriage. You remember that Jesus,
his mother and the disciples were there. “And when they wanted wine, the
mother of Jesus saith unto him, They have no wine.” Well, Jesus didn’t
seem quite ready to perform a miracle when his mother spoke to him, and
his reply was, “Mine hour is not yet come.” But no doubt the mother
felt his hour had come, so she told the servants to do whatever Jesus
instructed them to do. “Then Jesus saith unto them, Fill the water pots
with water. And they filled them up to the brim.” When the order to draw
out the water was given, lo, there was wine, and the governor drank of
it, speaking words of praise, for it was even better than the first which
had been passed; so at this place Jesus began to perform miracles.