Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
The sun shone very hot, and when it struck the water its rays caused
our eyes to smart. At the end of three hours Tell Hum was before us.
After landing we walked up a hill through a rank growth of weeds higher
than our heads, and there looked upon what is thought to be Capernaum,
one of the chief cities of Palestine in Christ’s time, where much of
his time was spent in healing the sick and teaching the people. Jesus
upbraided many cities for their neglect of duty, and Capernaum was among
the number. Now read his warning words, “And thou, Capernaum, which art
exalted unto heaven, shalt be brought down to hell: for if the mighty
works, which have been done in thee, had been done in Sodom, it would
have remained until this day. But I say unto you, That it shall be more
tolerable for the land of Sodom in the day of judgment, than for thee.”
The prophecy was fulfilled and all houses and churches were leveled to
the ground. The hot sun shining upon the rank growth of weeds proved
to be extremely disagreeable to us, therefore we shortened our stay.
Entering the boats again, we were rowed to camp.
The tents were pitched near Magdala, about three miles from Tiberias,
and our stopping place that night was only a few feet from the water,
a beautiful looking place, but an extremely damp one. The gentlemen of
the party took a good bath in the Sea of Galilee and pronounced it quite
refreshing; the ladies were denied that privilege, for bathing dresses
were too far away; so we missed that pleasure.
We retired rather late that night, but were quite willing to arise early
the next morning, and by seven o’clock were in the saddle. Horseback
riding was not so fatiguing now, and there really seemed to be a little
pleasure in traveling over hill and plain.
I have told you about riding horseback, but you may not know how we
mounted our horses. If plenty of rocks were to be found at the different
stopping places mounting a horse was not so very hard; but many times the
rocks were so small it would have taken hours and hours to throw them
together to make a pile large enough for us to stand upon. No chairs, no
rocks to stand on; then how did we mount? Well, the dragoman held out
his hand and we put our foot upon it; then, after having placed one of
our hands upon the horn of the saddle, we prepared to jump. Mr. Heilpin
always said, “Ready? Now, one, two, three;” and by the time he had said
three we were usually up in the saddle. But sometimes “three” was said,
when no attempt had been made to jump; then one, two, three was repeated.
Often our calculations and his counting failed to come out right; for
we had forgotten to spring. Mounting the horses was real amusing, but
awfully trying. Practice makes perfect, it has been said, and after a
few lessons every one of the women was more active, and we mounted in a
hurry.