Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Bedtime came later that night than usual because of the delay, so we were
the losers, for next morning we were not allowed to sleep any later than
usual.
At this point our journey in Palestine ends, and now we enter Syria.
From Cesarea Philippi we rode up the side of Mount Hermon, said to be
the highest mountain in Syria. On the top of it snow and ice are found
the year round. In Bible times this mountain was sometimes called Sion,
also Serion. It has several peaks, and upon one of them are to be found
the ruins of a temple supposed to have been erected there years and
years ago for the worship of Baal. Now Baal was an idol; so temples and
altars erected for the worship of that god were usually built upon high
places. We read that Josiah beat down the altars which had been erected
“on top of the upper chambers of Ahaz.” The Israelites were instructed
to “utterly destroy all the places wherein the nations which ye shall
possess served their gods, upon the high mountains, and upon the hills.”
The worship of Baal in those times was so great that human beings—sons of
families—were offered as burnt offerings to him. No wonder instructions
were given to “utterly destroy all the places.”
We did not ride to the top of Mount Hermon, because it was not necessary;
but a ridge to the right of it was crossed, and we found the way steep
and wonderfully rough. Never before had we gone over such roads, and
there was considerable danger connected with the trip. The Lord took care
of us, as usual, and we came out all right.
Lunch was eaten that day near a Druse village. They are a people who
greatly detest Christians, so we were very careful not to give occasion
for offense. Our stop there was not any more agreeable to us than it
seemed to be to them, so we were quite willing to ride on as soon as
possible after luncheon.
In the afternoon we crossed the swiftly flowing river Pharpar. A number
of Arab men, who were almost naked, led our horses through the rushing,
dashing water, and it took but a little while for us to find that each
man knew his business well. The water was quite deep, almost up to our
feet, and the current was so swift it seemed the horses would surely go
down stream instead of right across. We realized how necessary it was
to have our horses led by men who not only knew the fording place, but
who were strong and able to manage horses when in water. Those Arabs
assisted both men and women to cross over, and indeed not any one of the
party could have crossed without help.
That night our camping place was close to the river and very near to
a mountain village. We were now well on our way to Damascus. We found
the road long and the ride extremely wearisome, with nothing special to
attract our attention.