Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
The sun was not hid under a cloud all of that day, for during the
afternoon it shone beautifully, which brought joy to our hearts. We did
not remain indoors long, for all were anxious to see the great ruins of
Baalbek, which at one time were temples erected for the worship of Baal.
They have been the wonder of all ages, and nowhere in the world can more
extensive ruins be seen. People travel thousands of miles to see them.
The largest cut stones in the world are to be seen in these temples, and
it is a great mystery to know how they were placed there. A quarry from
which they were taken is not very far from the village, and one large
stone is still there, having never been removed by the workmen. The stone
chips lie about and one can scarcely realize the fact that many, many
years have gone by since the chisel and hammer have been used upon it.
I shall not begin to describe the ruined temples, for it might not
interest the greater number of the little readers, and to tell you
about the finely chiseled marble columns would occupy too much
space. The population of Baalbek was not very large, and there was
nothing attractive about the dwelling houses, for they were free from
ornamentation, low, and covered with flat straw roofs. After a hard rain
men go on the housetop with large wooden rollers to press out the water.
If it were allowed to remain in the straw long it would drip down into
the living rooms and be unpleasant for the family.
As a result of the exposure of our trip from Damascus to Baalbek, I was
taken sick with a hard chill and high fever; but with the free use of
medicines the fever was broken and I was enabled to travel on with the
rest of the party. After the ruins of the village were seen there were no
further attractions for tourists. So one bright beautiful morning we left
with everybody in a cheerful mood and very anxious to go on to the next
place, which would end our horseback riding.
We went direct from Baalbek to Beyrut, camping by the way and taking
two days for the journey. All of the party were in good humor and quite
cheerful, as I said before, and even the horses traveled better; so the
good feeling seemed general.
We camped on the mountains and had pure fresh air to breathe. Luncheon
was eaten in a stone khan, and when I look back to that time I can see
sixteen weary travelers sitting on benches against the wall, listening
to the dragoman talk, telling us how much money was due him. We knew he
had no right to demand it, yet for the sake of peace the money was handed
over to him. After a short rest we all moved onward toward a large town
by the name of Zableh. The road was rocky and steep, and the horses’ feet
clattered as they walked up the street, which seemed more like a stairway.