Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Smyrna is one of the cities which was spoken of in the Book of
Revelation, and there one of the Seven Churches of Asia was located. A
busy crowd of people were upon the streets, and in almost every direction
dogs were seen in every attitude. One of the distressing things to me
was the abundance of fleas which hopped upon us, biting as they went. We
desired to keep away from dogs, but their home had been in Smyrna long
enough to have the city well stocked with the little pests, and strangers
were not long in finding it out, for, whether near by or far away from a
dog, you were sure to be pestered.
The streets of Smyrna are narrow and dirty, with pools of
disease-breeding water standing here and there upon them. The houses are
not very large, and from the outside have an uninviting appearance. The
dress of the people seemed odd, and indeed so did everything we looked at.
In walking over the city we saw many Mohammedan mosques, and near them
was a tall, slender tower from which a priest called the hour of prayer.
Now those towers are called minarets, and the priest is a muezzin.
“Allah-el-Allah” is called in loud tones, and all the faithful ones bow
down and pray; no matter whether they are buying a bill of goods or on
their way to the mosque. We have seen them upon their knees on board of
steamers, and they seemed not one bit afraid of attracting the attention
of the tourists who stood looking on. Do you believe those people pray to
be seen of men? We wondered about it, and since we have no right to judge
we leave the matter with them.
Writing about Mohammedans brings to mind an incident which will no doubt
interest you. On board the steamer was an ugly old man who had two wives
and several children with him. They did not occupy staterooms, but took
up their abode upon the deck, and were known as deck passengers. The
women did not sit upon chairs, as did the rest of us, but flat upon the
floor. As a shelter from the wind and the glances of the passengers an
umbrella was used. We tried hard to peep under the covering to get a
glimpse of the women’s faces, but that privilege was never granted us,
for the umbrella was sure to come between us. The old man walked back and
forth for exercise, and the children ran to and fro before us; but the
women never stirred from their first sitting place.
The wind blew very hard and the air was quite chilly even to those of us
who were warmly clad. The children wore neither shoes nor stockings, and
their clothing was of the thinnest kind of cloth. Their feet were pink
with cold, and they had a season of crying as a result. The father was
displeased, and raising a heavy stick which he carried let it come down
upon the cold feet and ankles of the children. What a cruel act! And of
course that kind of treatment brought forth cries louder than ever. In
angry tones he scolded in a language we did not know, and quiet reigned
when the sobbing little ones were taken under the umbrella with the women.