Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
We took passage on the steamer Vesta, and Smyrna was left behind; we were
started on our five days’ journey to Jaffa. The voyage was pleasant and
the scenery varied, for we passed many islands. Our boat stopped a short
time at the Island of Cyprus, another one of Paul’s missionary points and
also the native place of Barnabas, who, having heard the bold speeches of
Peter and John, sold his land “and brought the money, and laid it at the
apostles’ feet.” Barnabas is frequently spoken of in the New Testament,
for he was a good man and “full of the Holy Ghost and of faith;” and he,
with Paul, made many missionary tours through this same Island of Cyprus.
About three hundred Greek and Armenian pilgrims wanted to be taken aboard
at this place; but there were too many of them, the captain thought, so
he took some and left the rest to wait for another ship. They made so
much noise we felt almost sure there was some disturbance brewing; but it
proved to be only their earnest way of talking, for they seemed peaceable
enough.
Each year hundreds of them make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem; they go there
to enjoy the Easter ceremonies. Many of them walk from Jaffa to Jerusalem
with pebbles in their shoes, or bare-foot. If some great sin has been
committed, they take upon themselves some torture which may bring about
suffering to the flesh.
The Vesta carried passengers who came from many parts of the
world,—merchants, tourists and pilgrims,—some on their way to Jerusalem,
others to Damascus, and still others to Egypt. There were ever so many
Turks on board, and right outside of our stateroom were a number of
Turkish women and children. There was a sofa in our stateroom by the
window, and I often sat there listening to their strange language. I
tried hard to see their faces, but that seemed out of the question, for
the women were veiled, which is a custom among them. Occasionally the
veil was thrown back, but just as soon as there was the least suspicion
of any one looking at them it was hurriedly pulled down. The women who
are seen with uncovered faces are considered bold.
The women and children were deck passengers, and during the trip stayed
there close by my window. They had plenty of bedding which was very clean
and nice looking. At night they slept upon it, and in the daytime used
it to sit upon. The men kept baskets well filled with the finest of
oranges, and no doubt there were plenty of good things besides for them
to eat. The women wore large earrings in their ears, and the prevailing
fashion among them was to stain the fingernails black; and thinking to
add to their looks they put a streak of black under the lower eyelid.