Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
In the city of Jerusalem? Yes, and how strange! It would be impossible to
try to describe our feelings, for we knew that somewhere in that vicinity
holy men of old had lived and walked and preached. We were aware of the
fact that the city had been destroyed many times since Christ’s time,
and that the streets which he was wont to walk upon were covered up with
many feet of earth. Yet, notwithstanding that fact, we felt wonderfully
blessed in being allowed the privilege of even being in the land where
Christ and his disciples loved to dwell. Solomon reigned over Jerusalem
forty years. God told Abraham to offer his only son for a burnt offering
on Moriah, and there the Temple of Solomon was built. I could spend many
hours writing about the patriarchs of old, but must hasten on and tell
you just a little more about the city. It is surrounded by a high wall
pierced with many gates. Every one who goes into or out of the city must
pass through one of these gates. A few years ago every one of them was
closed after sundown, but no attention is paid to locking them now, and
you are allowed to go in and out any hour of the night.
Many of the stones in one portion of the wall are very, very old, and the
Jews think they were used at one time in the foundation of their ancient
temple, and that is as near as it is possible for them to get to the
Holy of holies; so every Friday—and other days too—they gather together
and weep and wail over the downfall of their beloved Zion. That place is
always known as the “Jews’ Wailing Place.”
There is a Mohammedan cemetery outside of the city wall; the graves
are about two feet high and are covered with a white coat of plaster.
There are no tombstones and no names to tell the passer-by whose remains
lie beneath the sod. Possibly the relatives know by the location where
their dead are buried, but I’m pretty sure no one else could tell. One
afternoon we had walked a long distance, and on our return to the hotel
passed through the cemetery I’ve just told you about. We were very
tired, so leaned against a tomb to rest a few minutes. Several Moslem
men passed us, muttering to themselves, and looking quite savage. We
asked, “What ails them?” and the reply was, “They don’t want their graves
desecrated by Christian dogs.” That was the first time we had been
likened to a dog; and, fearing the compliment might be repeated, we arose
immediately and walked away. The Mohammedans’ love for a Christian is
not great, and it was a little uncertain how many insults they might be
tempted to offer if we tarried longer.