Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
There were nine sleeping tents, and each person had an iron bedstead with
mattress, two linen sheets, one blanket, a white spread and one pillow
with a case upon it; and every one of the tents was numbered. The number
of ours was nine. All of the party seemed to have enjoyed the good, warm
meal, and a little time was spent in talking of what had been seen during
the day. But bedtime came and each one retired to his tent. After tying
the baggage to our bedsteads, placing boots, shoes and clothing under
our head and feet, we crawled into the little beds. Sleep overcame us,
and in a little while we were in dreamland. My sleep was broken, for
every movement outside of the tent caused my eyes to open wide, and much
time was wasted in looking for the thieving Arab who never put in an
appearance.
Hyenas and jackals are numerous in that country, and during the nights
they bark long and loud. Sometimes they seemed not very far from the
camp. Very likely they would have ventured into camp; but a bright fire
was kept burning, and seated around it were the watching servants.
Early the next morning all hands were aroused by the rattling of tin
pans which were in the hands of the servants. The banging noise was
distressing to listen to, and we wished the pans were far enough away.
Some were slow to rise, even with such deafening noise. But they soon
learned that it was useless to even think of taking a second nap after
the first banging of pans. Every morning from that on the deafening music
was heard. Breakfast was always ready for us, and no time was wasted in
waiting.
Our meals were usually very good. There was tea, coffee, bread, butter,
eggs and omelette,—composed of eggs, milk and salt. Condensed milk was
used for coffee; the butter was canned too; it was never fresh, but
always very soft. A little of it went a great ways. Indeed, many times it
was left untouched by us. We did not tarry very long after breakfast on
the camp ground, for our horses were saddled and the dragoman waiting to
take the party to the Dead Sea and the Jordan.
The modern village of Jericho was passed through, and not a house was to
be seen; nothing but Bedouin Arab tents. You know Jesus passed through
Jericho on his way to Jerusalem. There Zaccheus lived, and you remember
he was small of stature. He wanted to see Jesus when he passed by, but
the crowd was so great that there was no chance for him; so he ran ahead
of the crowd and climbed up a tree, and there he could see all who passed.
Our riding was usually done single file, for all through that country the
roads are bad. The sun was extremely hot, and a nice shade would have
been agreeable to all; but we could not choose the path, so we journeyed
on and on.
The people in that part of the country are not very thrifty,—more
inclined to be lazy. They never plant trees, and I presume never think of
gardening.