Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Our camping place was at the foot of the mountains, and while some of
the party with the dragoman made the ascent of Gerizim others went on
to camp. Mr. Heilpin informed us that the ascent of the mountain would
be rather a hard one, so we that were tired preferred going on to camp;
therefore only a few of the company undertook the climb. The tents were
pitched on a piece of level ground beneath the steep ascent of Gerizim,
and only a short distance from the city of Nablus.
In Bible times the city went by the name of Sichem or Shechem. It was the
chief city of the Samaritans for years and years, because of the temple
which was erected on Mount Gerizim. There are still a few Samaritans
in Nablus, and it is said that at certain times of the year they go to
Gerizim and offer sacrifices as did their fathers before them. There is
no temple for them to worship in now, for it was destroyed ever so many
years ago.
Abram knew something about Shechem, too, for it was there that he made
his first stop after leaving Haran; and there he built an altar. Shechem
was also known as a city of refuge in Bible times. You see the Lord told
Joshua to tell the children of Israel to appoint cities of refuge. Any
one who had been unfortunate enough to accidentally kill a man could,
by fleeing thither and getting inside the gates, find safety from his
pursuers. Several cities were appointed for that purpose, and Shechem was
one of the number.
Nablus is quite a large city, and a very dirty one, too. The houses
are built of stone and the streets are very narrow. A great many soap
factories were there, and many heaps of ashes could be seen outside the
city. Lepers are there, and many of them, too,—poor, afflicted creatures.
We were fortunate to escape seeing them, as they did not happen to get
where we were.
Wherever we camped men, women and children of the cities flocked to see
us, and Nablus was no exception to the rule. Curiously they watched every
movement, and no doubt were highly entertained. Sometimes it was quite
annoying to us, yet we were pleased to know insults were never offered.
It was almost dark when the company who had gone up the mountain
returned. Shortly after the call for dinner,—the evening meal,—was given,
and gladly did we all respond. One hour was usually spent at a meal, and
only a short time passed between it and the time of retiring, and we were
always as glad to go to our little beds as to eat a meal.
The next morning at seven o’clock we left Shechem, going toward Samaria.
By this time I was able to ride with ease and comfort, for I had rested
from the extreme fatigue of a few days before. We rode through the
beautiful green valleys and enjoyed it very much. The saddle kept to its
place upon the horse’s back, and riding was a pleasure instead of a dread.