shrieking prosperity; and the late burgeoning of my earthy affections
was rudely nipped. Nevertheless, we had soon quitted the ghastly modern
township with its ill-dressed and ill-favoured inhabitants, and started
to descend by a long gentle declivity to a broad bottom, for we were
crossing the lofty watershed between two important Welsh rivers. We
finally reached a wide valley cleft by a noble stream that was now a
deep silent volume of water overhung by woods of oak and larch, and now
a series of broad gushing shallows whose leaping waves broke merrily
over opposing snags and rocks. At intervals we passed prosperous farms,
old-fashioned country houses that seemed haunts of ancient peace,
and stretches of rich pasture that were contiguous with the river's
meanderings. Out of this delectable valley we ascended a sharp rise
and, avoiding a moderate-sized country town, at length we reached an
exposed hill-top which afforded us the prospect of the estuary of
the river we had so lately left behind. Some two miles farther ahead
our goal was attained, after traversing a tract of sand dunes whose
desiccated soil gave sustenance to clumps of glaucous sea-holly and
prickly bushes of the sand-rose that at this season bore large sorbs
of burnished purple. The hotel itself, a gaunt, rambling, recently
erected structure, was perched on the rim of a precipitous range of
cliffs. It was certainly a blot upon the landscape; but its interior
promised solid comfort, whilst the hearty welcome of the landlord,
bereft of his usual tale of summer boarders, made plenteous reparation
for the lack of such luxury as we had bidden adieu to in London.