In July, 1892, with our two children, we made a most enjoyable tour of
Alaska, by way of Seattle and the steamship "Queen," through the inner
deep water channels with their still water and surrounding mountains
covered with inexhaustible cedar. We visited dense forests of timber
near Sitka, where the warm Chinook winds carry sufficient moisture to
keep them damp through the entire year, so that no forest fires ever
occur. The moss accumulated over fallen trees, which did not decay.
Huge trees several hundred years old grow upon others, as large and
as ancient, though dead. Fallen logs preserve so well that many are
as available as the standing trees for lumber. Cattle live the year
around on this constantly growing moss.
We stopped at Wrangell and Juneau, and spent some time at Sitka,
visiting Treadwell, the great silver mine. We stopped a couple
of days to see the wonderful Muir glacier, traveling several miles
over the surface of the solid ice mass. Twenty-seven miles long and
several miles wide, it moves gradually downward to the sea by force
of gravity, averaging seventy feet per day. As it moves, this great
mass tears from the solid granite below huge masses of rocks, and
pedestrians can hear the crushing of the rocks. On reaching the salt
water, which is very deep, the ice begins to soften and disintegrate,
and periodically falls in great shales, sometimes two miles in length
and nine hundred feet deep, into the water, only two hundred feet
being above the water line.
The captain stood off two miles from the glacier for us to see a berg
break off, which happened in the afternoon. We could plainly see this
immense body of ice fall into the water. It careened, disappeared,
broke into many parts and finally appeared on the surface as bergs
moving out to sea. The waves caused by this immense movement of ice
rocked the ship as if we were in a storm.
I was promoted colonel of cavalry, not assigned, while I held command
of the 4th. On the colonel's restoration, in February, 1893, I was
assigned as colonel of the 3d Cavalry at Fort McIntosh, and joined
February 28, 1893, where I had as adjutant Thomas B. Dugan and as
quartermaster John T. Knight, both efficient officers.
The Garza Mexican troubles on the Rio Grande were then in full force,
and my regiment was assigned to duty along the lower Rio Grande,
leaving two companies of infantry at McIntosh.
Numerous bands of Mexicans, half from Mexico and half from the United
States, committed depredations, stole property and killed Americans
all along the river to Brownsville. This so-called Garza war kept my
troops busy marching, and in the difficult effort to punish them we
lost a number of men.