This Peru, approachable from the Atlantic, the “monstrous thicke
wood” of the early travelers, still remains undisturbed. Illimitable
it is as you gaze down upon it, stretching away one unbroken forest
to the faint blue horizon, without a single natural approach except
the waterways. Lying close below the austere mountain-tops is a
luxuriant world of vegetation; wide stretches of unpreëmpted soil,
sparseness characteristic of polar regions hangs just above a tropical
phantasmagoria of growth. Shifting cloud-shadows and wandering rainbows
flit and interchange over the jungle like the play of colors on a
peacock’s neck.
Though we know that there are no mighty civilizations of human
making, there are no streets of gold with ruby walls, yet within the
imperturbable recesses are strange races and wonders of plant and
animal life which may interpret whole domains of knowledge. Nature’s
secrets are still locked up in this prolific laboratory. Though we
know that no great race of kings holds sway, yet it is certain that
here is a chance to study in the wild tribes the growth of human
language--beginning with the poor Inje-inje, who has not more than a
bird’s speech, and whose needs are no greater than his speech would
suggest.
CHAPTER II
TOWARD THE UNDISCOVERED COUNTRY
From the mountain-tops the stream leads toward the east over the
Eyebrows of the Jungle, La Ceja de la Montaña, letting loose a deluge
from its black clouds. Caught between walls of red and black striped
rock, the valley grows deeper and hotter and filled with mist. The
water accumulates brightly colored pebbles. It rolls over ungathered
bits of gold in its sand and rushes them along with slivers of
glistening mica. All about is the sound of springs “whose waters
moss has turned aside.” Buried in luxuriant vegetation, it slides on
beneath thickets of guava, golden cassia, and red-leaved _tilandsia_
bushes, hung with rank passion vines, whose ripened fruit, the crackly
_granadilla_, lies everywhere upon the ground. A mammoth iguana,
munching the flesh-colored bignonias, falls occasionally from the
tree-tops.
Small, richly plumed parrots nest in the rock walls. A whole book
might be written about the parrots, various as vegetation itself,
flashing multi-colored light as they scream through the air-spaces.
There is the toucan, turning his bill with its accessory head around
to gloss his splendid plumage in a ray of sunlight. At the other end
of the scale are the meek little green parroquets with perpendicular
bills, hardly larger than sparrows, which go in pairs and move in
parallel lines. Every variety keeps together, each to its kind.