Peru: a land of contrast — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Peru: a land of contrast
John Stuart Mill · en
As the gloomy, bottomless ravines descend, the forest becomes more
dense, with murmurs of flowing water everywhere. Mists hang from above,
barely concealing the jagged, black peaks. Sheets of continuous foam
veil the side of a polished cliff. Water drips over every precipice.
Cascades tumble from one mossed basin to another or let fall a clear
column into a rock-pool deeply buried in tropical vegetation.
Finally mountains and ravines subside, and with the energy of one
final, mighty leap, the rushing water plunges into the heart of the
jungle, comes to rest, then glides out with the flush of a flood-tide
across the Land of Water.
“As the serpents of this basin exceed all other serpents in size, so
does the Amazon exceed all other rivers.” As the whirl of branches
is to the trunk of a tree, as everything in nature is tributary to
something else, so are streamlets in the mountains of the snowy desert
to this mighty river. Collecting itself upon the frozen _puna_ far up
among the clouds, it gets an impetus which makes fresh, wide stretches
of ocean thousands of miles away.
So vast is the Amazon that, like the Andes which form a barrier to
separate two worlds, different species of animals inhabit its opposite
banks. It swarms with fish that will fight for a right to live, and
some of them, the _paichi_, for instance, reach the length of ten
feet and must be caught by harpooning. The water is full of swimming
animals. There are river-cows like sea-lions, and oceanic fauna such as
frigate birds and flying-fish. In the mud along the banks are tracks of
crocodiles and tortoises.
The Amazon has gained mastery over the land and has turned it
into a sposhy ocean, interspersed with flats of jungle flowers. A
watery labyrinth, “an aquatic not a terrestrial basin,” it is the
Mediterranean of South America. The greatest river in the world twists
and turns about, makes short cuts across its own bends and leaves
behind a delicious lagoon here, or a little, land-locked inlet there.
The Victoria Regia spreads its great, leathery leaves, and scarlet
ibises tilt about upon them.
This land beyond the Andes is known as the “rain-shadow.” The already
overflowing rivers are constantly swelling, since it rains so violently
that a stream of the Amazon valley can rise fifteen feet in a single
night. A passing and re-passing is continually going on, for, as the
water flows back toward the ocean, the winds above it are returning
from the Atlantic, bringing rain to moisten the jungle and to be
stopped only by the wall of the Andes.
Rain discloses the resources of the jungle. Plants push, burst upward
in astonishing growth. Flowers paint themselves with ineffable new
colors distilled from the rain, and those whose day has come and gone
lie in heaps of yellow, pink, and white petals on the ground, fallen
from beyond the tree-tops.